Weblog
Sunday, 04 December 2011
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F bar restaurant, Montreal - It's OK. Nothing more, nothing less
Click here for a recap of my picks of all Montreal's top fine dining & best Montreal's bistrots.
Also: My 3 and 2 Star Michelin restaurant review web site
F Bar
Addr: 1485, rue Jeanne-Mance, Montréal
Phone: (514) 289-4558
Dinner @ F Bar on Friday Dec 2nd 2011 18:00
Cuisine type: Bistro (Modern French with Med/Portuguese touches)
URL: http://www.fbar.ca
Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)
(English review will follow) - Le refrain est connu: il faut que nos plus beaux talents OSENT!! Sinon ca donne ceci: bon resto, des plats bien concus, rien de mauvais à dire...mais rien de particulier non plus! C'est dommage d'avoir que ca à retenir de cette soirée. En fouillant un peu, je dois dire que les beaux petits flacons Portugais, ca nous fait voyager un peu et ca a donné le ton à cette soirée, charmante soit...mais comme bien d'autres....à mon avis.
Chef Gilles Herzog has worked under Alain Ducasse (at Louis VX in Monte Carlo) in the past, and has also spent some time alongside Michelin starred Chef De Matteis (Who once was at Taillevent, Paris), 2 star Michelin Chef Patrick Henriroux, and Serge Chenet. He also worked at 2 star Michelin Châteaux de Divonne, 2 star Michelin La Pyramide and 1 star Michelin Le Prieuré (all of those tables been in France). I first discovered him when he was working at restaurant Derrière Les Fagots in Laval, a restaurant that stood among Quebec's very best when he was at its helm. Without being bold, his French contemporary cuisine maintained itself among the most exciting in the province. Easily among this province's top 5 best Chefs when he was at Derrière Les Fagots .
He now has the mission of offering the so-called market cuisine theme with a touch of Portuguese flair at the restaurant F Bar.
Many tend to confuse F Bar with a portuguese restaurant: its owner is portuguese, some part of the decor pays tribute to Portugal and it's clear that they have Portuguese-inspired dishes (bitoque, natas, etc), but I think it would be erroneous to go there with the sole idea that you are heading to your typical Portuguese restaurant: Chef Gilles Herzog has always made it clear to the medias that he has never cooked Portuguese food prior to his appointment at the F Bar, but that the owner asked him to come up with his take of Market cuisine 'rhythmed' by Mediterranean/Portuguese touches . Therefore, what this is more accurately about is a Chef Herzog Modern take on Portuguese / Mediterranean cuisine. If you are a purist of Portuguese food, then I'll suggest you go to Portugal!
Since its opening, I went at the F Bar twice already. The 1st time, I was on a rush and had their pasta acores, which did not do it for me. On a second visit, I had the Portuguese Bitoque (runny egg atop a strip loin steak). Which was just ok for me. Both visits occured at the beginning of the week, so this time I decided that an early Friday evening would perhaps be a better idea, with of course different items.
The food I had on this evening:
Deer tartare, orange/pepper/juniper berry jelly - Tasty tartare, judiciously spiced, chopped as it should. Then dices of orange jelly (retained the purity of orange flavor, adding extra taste/texture dimension to the dish). On my right, a salad of beets, executed with finesse and seasoned with precision. This was really Good 7/10, but again, that's what is expected from any good bistro.
Halibut, black raisin-parsley-almond condiment, brown butter/sherry - This is one of their most celebrated dishes among foodies and food journalists. It's well done, that's for sure: the fish is nicely cooked and packed with appealing moist consistency, the purée (that's underneath) sieved to ideal soft creaminess. Then you get the expected work of textural and flavor constrasts: crunch of the almonds,sweetness of the grapes, the grassy-ness of the parsley. All of this is nice, there's no doubt about that. But we have no surprise, no daring-ness. Just what's expected..again and again..from a good bistro. In between good to Very good 7.5/10
Coconut milk rice pudding, passion fruit/basil sorbet - This pudding stood creamy as a good rice pudding should be, its sweetness well controlled (not overwhelming), but where's the coconut flavor???? The sorbet (tasty without being stunning) and some crunchy bites added to the rice pudding do bring the necessary contrast and variety of textures ...but I really don't get this dessert: when I was reading its description, elements such as 'coconut milk' and 'basil' led me to think that some aromatic 'pep' would be delivered. In Mouth, they surprisingly remained absent: take the sorbet for ie...had that sorbet alone rose with a depth of flavor, I would have rate this dessert with a comfortable 8 over 10. Same for the coconut flavor: it's a flavor that I enjoy a lot and it would have certainly impart an interesting kick to the pudding...alas my palate never sensed it. - Good 7/10 ...but not great.
Bottom line: is F Bar among Mtl's best bistrots. Yes (albeit, in my view, a notch or two behind Bistro Cocagne, Au 5e Péché, Bouillon Bilk). But there's no room to feast, neither: Chef Herzog had the chance to work with culinary masters like Alain Ducasse, De Matteis, etc. So why not transferring a bit of that brilliance on those dishes. The dishes were good, a recurrence with many good bistrots in town, but neither on this meal nor on the 2 previous visits there...did I feel any sign of outstanding achievement. That's to be expected from a Chef of the caliber of Herzog!
PROS: the nice wines of Portugal as that amazing mineral Dona Maria 2009 served along the halibut. The fun, down to earth bartender on this evening (I sat at the bar). The festive atmosphere (it was packed).
CONS: I am not expecting all Bistrot Chefs to surprise me as Lenglet did at au 5e Péché...BUT of a Chef like Herzog, I guess it's normal to expect some sparks. Of course his food is good, better than at a lot of other highly regarded tables (I personally preferred this later meal here to the last ones I had at Le Chien Fumant, Chez Victoire, KGP for ie) , but of a Chef like him ... I need -- at the very least --- to stumble upon random stellar elements (even if it is as insignificant as a simple condiment).
Last but not least, I need to say this --- to Mtl's restaurateurs: making $$$ is wonderful, but people are eating out a lot nowadays, so a bit as in fashion...expect to face more and more demanding customers. Expect to be challenged. Just doing a good job won't suffice. Expect to surpass yourself.
Wishing the best to all of us,and may 2012 be a better year of discoveries!FBAR
Overall food rating: 5/10 Average for what Iam accustomed to /thus do expect at comparable restaurants/dining category. Iwas surprised by this just Ok performance, knowing well how the Chef here hasbeen able, at his previous restaurant, to offer far superior cooking. Thefood was pleasant, and as expected from such a talented Chef, it was well done,but keeping things on the safe side has not worked for me althoughthis is the way to go for their business to succeed: this is a place that isbusy night after night. Atleast, this is a very pleasant place with electric ambience. Overall service rating: 8/10 Mostly young,professional on this evening.
Décor: 8/10 Elegant, colorful, contemporary. Go on thei rwebsite,WYSIWYG!
IMPORTANT: 'Overall food rating' HAS NOTHING TO DO with the arithmecticcalculation of all dishes. It is my personal subjective rating of the overall foodperformance on the specif meal I am sampling only.
Thursday, 01 December 2011
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Chef Eric Gonzalez's Auberge Saint-Gabriel - Un peu de folie svp, Chef!
Click here for a recap of my picks of all Montreal's top fine dining & best Montreal's bistrots.
Also: My 3 and 2 Star Michelin restaurant review web site
Dinner at Auberge Saint-Gabriel
Type of cuisine: French (a mixed of Contemporary and Classics fares)
Thursday November 24th 2011, 18:00
Addr: 426 rue St-Gabriel Montreal, QC H2Y 2Z9
Phone: (514) 878-3561
URL: http://www.lesaint-gabriel.com/
Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)
(English review to follow) - Il va de soi qu'un Chef comme Eric Gonzalez (a--t-on besoin de le présenter? Rfaol) part déjà avec des avantages: une maitrise des textures irréprochable, un travail technique de solide calibre. Rien à redire sur ces aspects que je viens d'énumérer. Parcontre, il faudrait des portions plus généreuses dans l'assiette et le Chef doit absolument trouver une facon de faire 'pondre' des saveurs plus explosives en bouche.
Chef Eric Gonzalez is one of the most influential top Chefs of this province, alongside other great Chefs like Laprise, Anne Desjardins, Alain Labrie. He used to work for 3 star Michelin Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu, went on earning a Michelin star with Clairefontaine (Luxembourg). In Montreal, he was at the helm of famous restaurants like Laloux, Xo Le Restaurant, Cube.
His current work at Auberge St Gabriel (a trendy neo-rustic chic inn, marked by stonewalls) is widely praised as featuring among this city's very best.
Whatever meal you take starts with an amuse - bouche and ends with mignardises, a feature you only see at very few tables in town (even among the high end tables, you see this on few tables). My main waitress was a woman of tact and great sense of professionalism. All the rest of the staff, on this dinner, offered impeccable service. If I had to be a bit picky, I'd recommend some slight adjustments: the gentleman who took care of my wines should first pour a bit of wine, let me sample it, and inquires about my impression of it. Instead, he poured the wine and just hoped I'd like it. This is a minor slip that I'll put on the fact that he is not a sommelier..and yet, this should be avoided. Another very minor note: when I was leaving, a concierge to whom I said 'je vous souhaite une belle soirée", replied with a very casual 'à toi de meme". I don't want to replay the now widely refrain that 'vous' is now passé and it's cool to say 'tu"...Rfaol...but at such high end place, I am sure the owners would expect a bit more formality from their employees. Again, no drama here but a nice little touch to keep constructively in mind.
Braised beef / confit tomatoes / shrimps, aromatic spices, shellfish bearnaise - Naturally, there's little to complain about in the cooking aspect, when a Chef like Gonzalez is behind a dish: the bearnaise sauce for ie, was superbly flavored and it was clear that a technically capable hand was behind it. This is, to me, anywhere in between good (7/10 - shrimps were nicely cooked, braised beef of ultimate terderness) to very good (8/10 - the bearnaise sauce was stunning, both in texture and taste) dish. But of a top Chef like Gonzalez I expect startling 9 or 10/10 food performance as he sometimes did when he was at Laloux and at Cube. Could that be possible with items as straightforward as couple of cubes of braised beef, some shrimps and tomatoes confit. I'd say Yes (perhaps not for the shrimp...I don't see how far you can make a shrimp stellar...but the braised beef could have been beefier).
Shoulder of lamb confit, cooked like a tajine, carrot and dried fruits, cauliflower semolina, chickpea flour pancake, jus with Oriental flavours - There's, I felt, some kind of restraint in provoking the palate of the diner. Flavor was clearly under control. This could be pleasant to some, but a pain for me: I love rich, eventful flavors. This dish offered good, but carefully surveyed ones. The way he worked his carrots was another reminder of his great depth of culinary artistic skills. You should also see the fries: only three of those, but backed by a solid technical prouesse (consistency and texture of the fries being remarkable). This, I am sure, will remain a divisive dish given the small portions at such price ($35). But for its skillfull conception (you can clearly see that Chef Gonzalez belongs to the big leagues. Chefs like him, Laprise, Navarrette Jr, Rouyé, Michelle Mercuri, Lenglet, Alexandre Loiseau...I don't even compare their work anymore to local standards but to what's best done abroad. ALL I am asking Chef Gonzalez has nothing to do with the conception of this or the previous dish. It has to do with the flavors: make them more eventful, mode delicious if you prefer! I'll come back on this at the end of this review), I'll give it a 8/10
I've tried in the past many dishes of Chef Gonzalez (Cube, Lutetia, etc). I can tell you that it would be unfair to limit myself to this dinner's performance (those two dishes don't pay justice to the great talent of Chef Gonzalez). With that said, I have got to judge this dinner and not his past works. And as such, I did expect more from Chef Gonzalez, hence the title of my review 'Un peu de folie, svp, Chef!'. In nowadays restaurant standards, you stand out with extra mileage over what your competitors are doing. A good example of an opporunity that needed to be seized for that 'extra mileage' to materialize itself would have been to take the concept of that lamb confit dish further: it's mentioned Tajine in its description. So why not building memorable flavors around the stunning aromatic feature of a Tajine? The flavors were definitely good on that dish...but not stellar!
PROS: Original neo-rustic chic environment. Top class service from the wait staff . Top quality produce and the chance of having such a great Chef in the kitchen...BUT Chef, un brin de folie svp!
CONS: As always, my quibbles concern only the specific meal I have sampled. (1)Even if you are not a sommelier, wait that the customer tries the wine first...and make sure you provide a short description of the wine.
(2)Chef Gonzalez has talent. No one will deny that and he has proved it for years. BUT a Chef needs to take risks and impart excitement in his work of flavors.And they need to be a tad more generous with their portions on dishes like the two that I have sampled.
Overall food rating: 7/10 for what I do expect from a Chef like Gonzalez. he can do way better. Of course, I am not stoopid neither: this was technically well done, as expected from a Chef who already had a Michelin star in Europe. But food needs excitement!!!!
Friday, 25 November 2011
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Restaurant Laloux, Montreal - This dinner was disappointing to me
Click here for a recap of my picks of all Montreal's top fine dining & best Montreal's bistrots.
Also: My 3 and 2 Star Michelin restaurant review web siteDinner at Laloux
Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)
Type of cuisine: French Bistro
Friday November 25th 2011, 20:00
Addr: 250, avenue des Pins Est, Montreal, QC
Phone: 514 287-9127
URL: http://www.laloux.com/index.html
(Review in English to follow) J'espère que ce ne fut qu'une soirée off: magret et jambonneau de canard trop salé, le jambonneau complètement sec, le tout sans panache. Quant au plat de foie de veau, c'est du beau produit, certes...mais il faut le sublimer, le rendre épatant en bouche! Dommage, puisque Laloux a toujours été un coup de coeur de longue date. A eux de garder l'esprit ouvert à la critique constructive et en profiter pour rebondir.
Chef Jonathan Lapierre-Réhayem is known as the latest new kid on the block of the Montreal restaurant scene. Many food journalists have raved over his work at the latest La Montée, and now at Laloux. It's with great enthusiasm that I went finding out about this new talent of the Montreal restaurant scene especially after learning that he also worked at some point at XO Le Restaurant and also Au 5e Péché, both being in my very top 5 of Montreal finest tables (one being a fine dining venture, the latter one being an amazing Bistro that I can't stop raving about). As for Laloux, this is a Montreal institution (almost 3 decades of existence very soon). I used to live right next door to Laloux and this is a classic high end bistro that I have always been a big fan of (I remember, for ie, the top quality dinners I had there when Chef Gonzalez was working at Laloux. I've never experienced Laloux under Chef Jetté, but this might have been another big moment of Laloux's history given the huge talent of Chef Jetté.
The decor of Laloux is classic. It could remind some of a classic Parisian bistro, with its high ceilings, white table cloths, and uniform black and yellow tones, large glass windows. The food is inspired by classic French Bistro cuisine, which is usually the type of cuisine that I am the most fond of.
I began with a starter of fresh oysters (nicely sourced, the oysters were impeccable to all respects: freshness, quality), then ....
I lost touch with the radio signal
.........
Foie de veau, purée de pomme de terre, panais rôtis, sauce à la pancetta et cipollini - Veal liver (cooked correctly), potato purée (done as it should). But this dish remained a standard dish, with no particular palatable highlight (the taste being ok, but I have tasted way more flavorful veal liver dishes at numerous bistrots). I don't know how many times this should be repeated: it's not enough to just have a good produce (the veal liver was of nice quality, same could be said of the parnsnip)...at a restaurant, you need to elevate all of that to something that awakens the taste buds. This was way too simple to be enjoyed at a restaurant. Classic food is one thing. Simple simple simple food is another thing 4/10Not knowing what to make out of the last dish (I am not patient with lacklustre restaurant performance...people are paying for this!!!
), I decided to give another chance to the kitchen:
Magret et jambonneau de canard, spätzle à l'aneth, salsifi et crème sure à la moutarde de Meaux- The quality of the duck is remarkable. But again, the work of the produce comes with a load of reproaches: (1)over-salted meat. Way too much salt and this is coming from someone who loves salt! (2) presentation lacked appeal (3) the 'jambonneau' was dry...barely edible! I don't get this! 3/10At that point, I decided to take no dessert, no coffee and just leave.
Dommage since I am a long time fan of Laloux (I had some great meals, there, in the past) as I prefaced earlier on. It's then all natural that I had hard time accepting this kind of under-performance. Laloux has lost a long time fan tonight. Up to them to bounce back and to prove to themselves that this was just an off night. And if I were them, I'd take whoever has cooked this meal, invite him to tables like Au 5e Péché, Bistro Cocagne, La Porte, Raza or Le Marly and instruct him to imagine how those Chefs at the previously mentioned tables would cook that foie de veau and magret dishes (Those restaurants I have just mentioned are not all offering the same type of cuisine as Laloux, BUT of this given meal I just had, there's definitely a lot to learn from those tables, in many aspects: presentation of the dishes, work of the taste, etc)!
PROS: Wine pairing was inspired on this evening (great little findings from all around the world) and their wine list will cater to every taste. I also like that classic French bistrot decor.
CONS: I can talk only for what I experience. So this concerns this given meal on Friday November 25th 2011: Food, especially when people are paying for it ..needs to be flavorful. Not just well cooked. Not just good produce. And since it's French cuisine, the word DELICIOUS needs to be part of my post-dinner verbiage! Which was not the case of this specific dinner.
LALOUX
IMPORTANT: 'Overallfood rating' HAS NOTHING TO DO with the arithmectic calculation
Overallfood rating: 3/10 Why those things happen to my favourite Chefs? I really like their Chef, a man who has travelled a lot and whose open mindness is well known. My kind of Chef. But on this evening, honestly, nothing really shone.
Overallservice rating: 8/10 Professional .
Décor: Pretty Parisian look-alike bistro style!
of all dishes. It is my personal subjective rating of the overall foodperformance on the specific meal I am sampling only.
Sunday, 20 November 2011
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Bottega, Montreal - Could this be the best Pizza in Montreal?
Click here for a recap of my picks of all Montreal's top fine dining & best Montreal's bistrots.
Also: My 3 and 2 Star Michelin restaurant review web site
Bottega
Cuisine type: Pizzas and other misc Italian calzones, sfizis, dolcis.
Addr: 65 St Zotique East, Montreal
Phone: 514-277-8104
URL: http://www.bottega.ca/
A while back, I was reading an article on the best Pizzas in Paris written by a famous food columnist from France. Caught in between the unsatisfaction of those whose pizzerias appeared to not make it among that Gentleman's favourite and their overexcited opponents, the debate was simply surreal. Let alone the circumstancial patronizers: 'You should'... wrote one of them ''ensure that you are Italian before giving your opinion about Pizzas'...or that other one writing 'you are not a purist'...Rfaol! The best are the experts of the moment, those with lessons on what seems overrated to them. They are the best because instead of informing themselves on how a Pizza is baked, they will tell you what a Pizza should taste and look like. They will even provide you with the numbers: the pizza you've just ate...someone once told me..is 85% dough! Euh..Nope...not at all, laughable man! There's also that normal instinct to always find 'not that great' what others found outstanding (we are all victims of the latter). Ok, with me, things are simple: no matter what purists, non purists or Ave Maria thinks...we should all know better that food is subjective and only what pleases to my (or your own) palate counts.
In Montreal, this is no different: every Pizzeria think his/her pizza is the best and the web is loaded with just that: ''hey Pendelis is the best, No it's magpie, No it's Bottega, oh wait it's Napoletana..hey No, you are not a purist...85% dough!''. Deuh. And on and on. Regardless, after 15 years in Montreal and being a great fan of pizzas, I went trying as many as I could throughout more than a decade (the big majority of Mtl pizzerias from the top contenders like Bottega, Magpie, Napoletana, Amelio, the popular Artigiani, Manzio, Pendelis, Il Focolaio, Dei Compari, up to the franchise variety Pizza hut, Domino, etc). And my verdict is clear: Bottega (the one on St Zotique, that is - The one in Laval has not impressed me that much) is the big winner. By leaps!
I have to remind this, it's an important detail since it tells you what type of reviewer I am : I don't technically analyze food in the 1st place. Analyzing is only second to my emotion. It's food. It's like breathing air. When the air is fresh and pure, I first appreciate it (its freshness, how happy and moved it makes me feel) .. then I may optionally technically describe it (there was the right amount of oxygen, etc). I like reminding this to people because I see too many food reviewers focused on the decrypting of their food: for ie, couple of months ago, I was seating at the table of a restaurant with a food critic and as soon as he indulged in the very 1st spoon of his velouté, he had a lot to say. Already..??..wait..did I tell him. Take your time, enjoy it. If it's really bad, you'll know it anyways. But upon enjoying one spoon..how on earth did you have time to enjoy (or not) it enoughly well to judge it? That's me: I enjoy it first, and of course..if it's really bad, I ain't like it. If it's just ok, I'll say it. If it's outsanding to my palate, I won't hide it. Of course, as usual: it's all subjective!
For this article, I just came from picking two classic Pizzas at Bottega (the one on St-Zotique street):
Pizza Margherita
Their Margherita Pizza is the most memorable I ever had in Montreal. The taste, the cooking, the conception of the dough, all went in line with my idea of the ideal Pizza: a beautiful puffy cornicione, a standout soft crust, dazzling fresh toppings of San Marzano tomatoes and a fior di latte that's at its very best. A 9/10 (which is excellent) of my standards for top level pizzas. In Montreal, there's no doubt that this one at Bottega (again,on St Zotique) stood predominate at all levels (taste, baking consistency, top quality ingredients). I have tried all its other top contenders in town and none of them can hold a candle to Bottega , I am afraid! Moreover, all of them would benefit from a meal here and see how refinement can bring them a long way: just look at the photo and notice how nothing overwhelms that pizza, textures are right on point, and were miles away from common features so oftently seen elsewhere such as poorly conceived crusts and bases, or piles of overwhelming toppings.
Pizza Quattro Formaggi
With Gorgonzolla, Tallegio, provolla,ricotta and basil. An 8.5/10 (which is very good as opposed to excellent), but I personally never had better QF in Montreal. In Roma and Naples I has some few that fared better (perhaps 9/10), but still this is the best Quattro Formaggi I ever had in montreal.
If you have just arrived in Montreal, I'd suggest you start with Bottega then continue with whatever is proposed to you. Personally, I found Bottega to be in its own league here in Montreal. With that said, if your palate is only pleased with the North American takes on Pizzas or the over-doughy greasy pizzas of the quantitative type , then I am afraid you are losing your time reading this post: Bottega offers a Pizza that's as close to home as you'll ever get here in Montreal. And in my assessment, their Pizzas are simply done way better, with better baking techniques, better flavor, better ingredients and more authenticity and refinement than at any other Pizzeria in town. As usual, it's a matter of personal taste and I hope you don't go there expecting to be wowed: we eat so many Pizzas in our life, than unless a Pizza is shipped from Mars after being baked on Jupiter, we are unlikely going to be wowed by a Pizza!
Last but not least: unless you decide to sit there, indulge in wines, extra items and other personal luxurious choices (like for ie, their $30 pizza made with black truffles), I don't see any reason you might find Bottega pricey: That Margherita Pizza was $13, the quatro Formaggi $17. Prices are listed on their web site.
Some of the other top contenders in town:
Although I did them all (Prato, Amelio, Magpie, and on and on), I wont list them all since this might be endless. Instead, I will just list some of the top contenders in town. Virtually everything have been explained on the web about these places so I'll skip the technicalities (about the dough, the crust, etc) and jump directly onto the subjective personal opinion over the resulting palatable impact.
Pizza Magpie, 16, rue Maguire - Magpie has delivered the second favourite Margherita Pizza of this rundown right after Bottega's. Their Margherita had actually a visual appeal that was even superior to the one at Bottega (my favourite Pizza style, as you have realized by now being the Neapolitan-Style, therefore the relevant visual style is also one that I prefer). But Bottega's Margherita ended being the winner for its better puffed crust, and for being also tastier to my palate (I found Bottega to make a better use of the advantage of using the wood burning oven). The use of the dopio zero Italian wheat flour and top quality Ingredients such as the San Marzano's cheese really give an advantage towards Neapolitan-Style authenticity to both Bottega and Magpie's Margherita Pizzas. Magpie has a neo-rustic bistro-pub electric feel that makes me want to go back there and sit at one of their tables. It's such a cool laidback place with a nice service. I'll go back time and again, that's for sure, and when I'll do so, I'll try the Margherita and all their other items,
except for the pepperoni Pizza
(it had an oily fragrance to it that didn't do it for me). 8/10 for the Margherita Pizza, 5/10 for the Peperroni one but largely my #2 favourite Pizza in Montreal.
Pizza Prato 3891, boul. St-Laurent - This is the #3 of this rundown. This was different and interesting when compared to the other top contenders: flavors were enjoyable, the topping not as refined as on the Margherita Pizzas of Bottega and Magpie, but the taste of each ingredient being superb (you could really distinguish the fresh tomato taste from the superb depth of cheesy flavor, for ie). I don't understand why they had to scatter the basil leaves (just leaving 3 beautiful basil leaves intact would have added to the visual appeal of that Pizza), but I won't hold this against them since this pizza, without being the best of the rundown, remained one I wouldn't mind re-ordering (despite the $16 price tag. The most $$ Margherita of this current review). This left a good taste on my palate. 7/10
Pizza Artigiani, 4657 rue St-Denis
A beautiful cozy place with a service to die for. They have a nice wooden bar, and a relatively chic warmful bistro feel decor, on Saint Denis not far from Laurier Street.. As for all Pizzas of this rundown, the intent there is to get as close to what's offered in Italy, therefore wood-burning oven is used for baking the pizza
I found this Margherita Pizza at Artigiani to appeal a bit more to my taste than Napoletana's, and yet I didn't find it to stand out by any means. The taste was good, crust well done, but the overall impact,again in my view, did not appear to me as anything superior to what I can usually find at any good neighborhood pizza joint in town. 6/10
Pizza Napoletana, 189 Dante
Located not that far from Bottega, in little Italy. This place might be one of the few in town that can brag about its amazing popularity. Went there on a Tuesday evening and it was packed, a rare ocurence that only places like Au Pied de Cochon do have the privilege of enjoying. This is one of the top contenders among Mtl's Pizza fans, especially those interested in a Pizza as close to home as possible.
For accuracy purpose I went buying this Pizza Margherita at Napoletana so that we can compare apples to apples (I also ordered a Pizza Margherita for this rundown at all the other Pizzerias as well). I really went there with the intent to tell you that I thought this is indeed a top pizza place, but unfortunately this one Margherita fell short of any interest: pretty much anything about it was average, in my view: the crust (just ok), the tomato sauce (nothing special), the taste (pretty much standard to my palate). I'll go back and try other Pizzas of theirs. Perhaps I'll then understand what the fuss is all about, but I expected a pizza as classic as a Margherita to shine. For that Margherita a 4/10
Bottom line:
Of course, we all know that the 'best' is purely of subjective material and you have hopefully understood that by 'best'' I naturally meant what I perceived as 'my favourite". This latest rundown has essentially covered the pizzerias widly buzzed (blogosphere, pizza fans circles, opinions of locals) as the very best in town.
As I have explained earlier on, of those, only Bottega has left a great impression on me (Magpie did a great job as well with their Margherita Pizza, the only 2nd best of its kind that I could find in Mtl, second only to the one at Bottega).
With that said, I believe that it would be more accurate to convey that there's no need to develop unecessary expectations towards such subjective appreciations: for ie, it would be erroneous to believe that wowness might be expected from Bottega since it's at the top of my list. Wowness is in itself an over-rated, misleading description that is understood only by oneself's perceptions, therefore as utterly as irrelevant as another nonsense: the term 'over-rated' (for those exact same reasons).
Bottega is the #1 on my list because it appeared to me (my expectations, my judgement, my evaluation) as the Pizzeria that made it in a better way, with better flavor compared to what I have been sampling in town at this given point in time. Nothing more, nothing less.
I actually purposely focused my review on Pizza Margheritas mostly ... so that you can find an obvious weakness to pique upon ... so that I can remind you that there's no perfect opinion anyways, so I may as well do my reviews the way I feel like doing them..Rfaol!
Now, although this city is not famous for its Pizzas (New York as an ie would fare better to that regard, in my opinion), I’ll end this post with some pizzas that are not necessarily claiming to be authentic nor to be the best in town, but at this moment they surprisingly are bringing more palatable excitement (as far as I am concerned) than at 99% of their widly buzzed peers:
-Pizzedelic: At times, I found their Pizzas to be among this city most delicious at this Pizza chain.
-Pendelis : A long time favourite Greek Pizza place (I only know the one on Van Horne. Their hearty cheese pepperoni has satisfied me where many of the widly buzzed ones have failed. Talking about hearty Pizzas, Amelio's do bake some tasty ones too. Amelio's is one of this city Buzed Pizzerias. Its tasty and rich taste coupled with the fact that the McGill Ghetto folks have a strong presence on the web do surely help.
-Pizza Hut: I am a fan! Hey..what..?? It's tasty to my palate and that's the only thing that counts, no? It used to be even better couple of years ago, I found.
Hence, my question: could Bottega be the best of them all? If you are a competitor of Bottega, don't lose your time with the exercise...Rfaol!....
..but if you aren't, start with Bottega, try Magpie and all the other places and see for yourself. As always, taste is a subjective matter
Pizzadeliciously yours,
Friday, 18 November 2011
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Le comptoir charcuteries et vins, Montreal - Worth the buzz?
Click here for a recap of my picks of all Montreal's top fine dining & best Montreal's bistrots.
Also: My 3 and 2 Star Michelin restaurant review web site
Le Comptoir charcuterie et vins
Addr: 4807, boul. Saint-Laurent, Montréal
Type of cuisine: Modern French/Cosmopolitan Bistro
Phone: 514-844-8467
Dinner there this Friday November 11th 2011, 17:00
Food rating: Exceptional (10), Excellent (9), Very good (8), Good (7), just Ok (6)
(English review will follow) - C'est le nouveau prodige de la scène gastronomique Montréalaise. Un petit bistro/bar vraiment charmant: accessible, le service aimable, l'ambiance vivante, le décor chaleureux. Coté cuisine, oui, ce fut généralement réussi: ils ont l'intelligence de savoir jouer sur l'acidité, le gras, le croquant, les gouts riches..donc des plats généralement savoureux sans etre bouleversants. Quoique pas vraiment à la hauteur du buzz (à mes yeux, évidemment): des 'shorts-ribs' sans saveur, les meme garnitures sur plusieurs plats, des pates tièdes (le plat de cannelloni)..donc à la texture peu enviable...j'ai beau vouloir faire partie du buzz, mais désolé..il manque de jus dans ce cas. Ce fut quand meme beaucoup mieux que mes repas Chez Victoire, KGP, Newtown mais moins saisissants que ceux que j'ai dégustés Au Kitchen Galerie, Bistro Cocagne, et Bouillon Bilk. Pourtant, le buzz ca ne conduit pas nécessairement à des attentes exagérés: à preuve, San Sebastian...c'est du buzz....et la prestation gourmande surpassa le buzz. Le Buzz c'est pas de la faute du resto CCV, mais en meme temps ca ne l'aide pas car ce soir, je suis sorti de là en me disant que ce fut vraiment bien...mais pourquoi autant de bruit? Lol. Attention: tel que je l'ai mentionné, ce fut bien mieux qu'à d'autres bistrots en ville (eux, au moins, ils s'assurent que ca goute bon!). Mais d'un endroit avec autant de buzz, sans exiger de la perfection sur toute la ligne, je m'attends au moins à quelques plats qui tonnent et transcendent. Y allez? Oui, allez-y! A la hauteur du buzz? Non (à mon avis). Retournerai-je? Oui Dans mes favoris? Non. Aussi: j'espère que c'est un cas isolé -> le chef était dans la salle au lieu d'etre en arrière des fourneaux au moment de notre passage (Vendredi 11 Nov à 17:00)..??? À leurs époques, de grandes Toques comme Ducasse, Joel Robuchon bossaient fort en arrière de leurs fourneaux. Ici à Montréal, des Chefs de grand talent (Rouyé, Alexandre Loiseau, Mercuri, Navarrette Jr) font de meme: ils sont en cuisine. L'on se pose donc naturellement des questions... Paul Bocuse? Robuchon? J'aurai compris..mais là... Bref, c'est pas un drame..d' autres jeunes cuistots Montréalais sont de toute facon concernés par ca...Lol.. et c'est surement pas tout le temps comme ca..du moins je l'espère..., mais la cuisine c'est aussi une question de perception! Au final, lisez attentivement la description de chacun des plats que j'ai mangé: tout y est exprimé en toute franchise.
This web site focuses on what stands out amidst Montreal finest dinings and bistrots, but honestly, lately ... I am disappointed: many good tables have recently opened but none (in my view) really worths spending time to write about. I have visited a good dozen of the latest new ones, and mostly ended with comments like ''oh geez...can someone surprise me a bit please"! Most of us cook since a long time (in my case, since my tender childhood), so I don't expect surreal fireworks from food (it's not a circus, it's food) at restaurant but for the money I pay, I do expect either a work of flavors that is outstanding (as usual, compared to what the most are offering in the same city of the restaurant that I am eating at) or things I seldomly see at most of the competitors of that restaurant. Wherever I go, I like comparing local apples to local apples. I am not the type of person expecting one city to be compared to another. When I write, for ie, that a restaurant is creative or stands out, that is in comparison to its closest peers (wherever it applies, I'll of course mention if the restaurant performs to standards I saw abroad) .
Le Comptoir charcuterie et vins may appear, at first glance, to not fit with what this web site is focusing on, but this restaurant is THE new star in town, with an avalanche of massive raves coming from all parts: the medias, food critics, and way more. I know this does not guarantee that things will necessarily live up to my (or yours) expectations, but I am under the impression that this eatery has that little something that sets itself apart. I went to find out for myself.
Chef Ségué Lepage of Le comptoir charcuteries et vins is a charismatic young talented Chef who was once trained at 3 star Michelin Bernard Loiseau in France.He is now back in Montreal (after couple of years in Vancouver as well) with a Bistro/Charcuterie/Wine bar formula that is quite common in town lately, but appearently, from what is buzzed around, his formula is 'beating the formula': since its opening, this eatery attracts hordes of gourmands, the success being instantaneous (Chef Ségué Lepage, within one year of opening his venture, has already many accolades to his credit: Gold Medal Plate's top 10 best Chefs in Montreal, Air Canada's En Route's Mag top Montreal tables for this year, etc).
Although Chef Lepage is not trying to re-invent the wheel with his latest offerings (his cuisine is clearly playing in the same field as the casual modern bistro-centric trends), my interest here is really to see how far he can push the bar in leaving his imprint (read: how flavorful his food shines through or stands out in a way I could walk out from his eatery with the feel that his work has that little 'je ne sais quoi''). You don't need culinaric wowness for this (for ie: when 3 star Michelin Chef Jean-Francois Piège decided that he would be behind the stoves of his bistro Thoumieux in Paris...naturally such Bistro benefitted from the very best standards / I did that Bistro btw, and however dissenting our opinions would be, Piège will always get away with what will always stand among the very best bistro formulas you"ll ever find around the globe - I am always opened to be proven wrong, but I'd seriously be surprised of the contrary); some great Chefs did just that within the same casual bistro standards that Chef Lepage is facing and they did it right here in Montreal: Chefs Axel and Bourdages at Kitchen Galerie (on Jean-Talon), Chef Alexandre Loiseau at Bistro Cocagne, Chef Lenglet at au 5e Péché. Could Chef Lepage compete with those Chefs or even surpass them? Based on the raves, I naturally hoped so (or at least competing with that level) ! As a reminder, the food of Lenglet, Axel, Bourdages and Loiseau can't be accused of being super complex, but in their apparent simplicity they've managed to outstand the most with bistro dishes that simply taste better. I went to CCV expecting a bit of that from Chef Lepage.
The room was packed when we were eating there and I'd be surprised that you can get a table just by showing up at the door on a Friday/Satur evening. So book in advance. The interior did remind me of a small wooden neo-rustic loft with omnipresence of wood. Le 'comptoir' translates into 'counter', therefore you need to expect the minimal setting that is in line with this designation. It's busy, and informal. Open kitchen, the menu on a chalkboard and offerings follow what's in season. The wine list will appeal to most Mtlers: mostly, bio wines with prices that reach out to a wide range of patrons (for ie wines as low as $33 Ribera del Duero Miros 2006, Penafiel up to a Corton Rognet grand cru 2008, B Clavelier @ $200 with plenty of affordable great findings in between). They do also offer some wines by the glass (this is one of their strengths: the wine by the glass that were offered to me on this evening being truely inspired with many wines rarely found in town).
FOOD:
I've skipped everything that's marinated or that needs few manipulation (for ie, their beet salad) and went right into the cooked dishes so that I can more accurately get a good idea of this cuisine (this is my very first time here):
Tarte de homard, oignons blonds, tomates confites, crème fraiche, huile d'estragon $19 - A lobster tart. My wife and I exchanged divergent opinions over this one. She thought this was the best dish of this evening. She gave it a 8 over 10. For her, every thing was right on point: the lobster meat being succulent, cooked right. To me, coming from a fishermen's village, I prefer lobster with more upfront marine freshness, yep..even at this time of the year (it happened before) . Make no mistake though: the lobster was meaty and tasted good. Onions, tomatoes logically complemented this dish. A 7.5 over 10 for me (the sablé pastry tart that was beneath the crab was average in conception and taste; it was not bad, but lacked the refinement and excellent execution I usually expect from a standout kitchen - I have no problem being challenged with my choices, that's a subjective matter anyways, but before I rave over a meal it needs to be refined even in the little details. With that fullfilled, I can live in peace with my enthusiastic appreciation. Given the raves - Top 10 new table in Canada in 2011, etc -- I believe it's normal to have such basic expectations) which is very good --mostly for its price/value ratio and especially because it tasted good ---- but not a 9 (excellent) nor a 10 (exceptional), the latter being actually marks that I don't necessarily hold only for fancy tables: the proof, some of the $3 tapas I ate in SSB were rated with 10/10. Same applied to some fares I've sampled at simple bistrots like Kitchen Galerie on Jean-Talon, Bistro Cocagne, Au 5e Péché ..regardless of the $$$. With that said, I insist and re-iterate: this $19 lobster tart remains far superior to many 25$-$30 food items you'll get at many highly regarded bistrots in town.
Cannelloni de poulet confit, compote de tomate, crème sure à l'ail - Chicken Cannelloni. My wife thought this was less impressive than the previous dish, although she had no particular reproach. To me, this was the best dish of this evening: rich, with various dazzling flavors shining even into the little details such as in the black olive cream and delicious fresh tomatoes. Close to Excellent (8.5/10) for me, Just good (7/10) for my wife. In my view, had all the dishes performed at this level, then Yep...I'd tell you that I get the buzz. A friendly advice though: two dishes with same garnishes (the topping of greens that you've just seen on both the Cannelloni and Lobster tart) ..that's to be avoided (this tends to take some appeal out of the dishes, I found). Also: always serve pastas warmer if you don't want your dish to suffer from lackluster texture (which I still forgave since this dish was so tasty, but this is one of those slips that kept me a bit conservative about going enthusiastic over this table. Many would have under-rate this dish because of the textural slip...I won't, but let's keep in mind that my 8.5/10 is justified by the stunning taste of this dish only). At $11, this was great value.
Short ribs de boeuf, agnoletti p.d.t, purée de céléri-rave, oignon braisé au vin rouge. $15 (could have been a bargain, but...read the description of my review of this dish) - Braised beef short ribs - As much as both previous dishes had many rich flavors, contrasting textures and a smart display of balanced acidity (without being necessarily exceptional), this was surprisingly average (no savory dimension, no upfront delicious beefy taste). Short ribs are condemned to be very flavorful, but flavors were muted on this one. The purée was fine, the braised onions without reproach but the main element was short of sparks. 6.5/10
Poélé de chanterelles, langue de porc braisée, mini raviolis à purée de racine de persil - Smiles were back on track with this one. A dish like this has that kind of succulent mouthfeel (without being exceptional) that made me insisting on the fact that although I didn't think that it shone at heights of the buzz it is enjoying (again, not the fault of this restaurant), this table still has an edge over many other top bistrots in town. The braised pork tongue was well cooked, it was packed with enticing flavor, the mushrooms perfectly seared and the raviolis had the right al dente consistency. It's not a revolutionary dish (which I actually largely prefer over fancy challenging culinary constructions) , but the palatable impact is high. Again and again: why that topping of the same greens that appeared on both previous plates?????????? In the diner's psyche, seeing the same garnishes over and over simply kills the mooooood!!
BUT what a bargain at $11! (many bistro fares charged at double the price of this course never came as close to half of the amazing taste of this dish!!) 8.5 /10
Panna cotta à la vanille, compote de pomme à la fève tonka, purée de dattes, sablée breton aux pacanes - Vanilla Panna cotta, apple compote was average. No reproach with regard to the execution here (the panna cotta being technically conceived as expected, the compote flawless)..but the overall palatable impact was weak without being bad. 7/10
Bottom line, I found CCV to be a fine and fun (it's popular and the atmosphere is festive here) small laidback spot to have some nice wines (they indeed have little gems you won't see oftently at other tables in Montreal), food that's mostly tasty (honestly, for a web site like mine that focuses on what stands out in town -- No, this is not done in a snobbish way but just with the humble intent to find tables that push the bar -- you'll catch some top tables that haven't offered as many 8/10 or 8.5/10 dishes as on this dinner). The problem here has nothing to do with CCV (although this meal at CCV is not a revelation neither): it's the lousy buzz. If at least one single item (out of the 5 that we've sampled) was outstanding (the cannelloni and poélé de chanterelles were great, but I had better poélés de chanterelles and cannellonis alike-dishes in Montreal), I'd at least understand a bit of the buzz. When you see some tables that are far superior (for accuracy purpose, remember that those don't match CCV's cost Vs value advantage neither) not benefitting from such buzz, you naturally don't get the buzz! CCV should not be criticized for that. But on the other hand, if buzz needs to predominate here in Mtl, then it has to start with far superior tables like Au 5e Péché, Raza, Le Marly, Bouillon Bilk, XO Le restaurant, La Porte..etc. Then I'll get the buzzy buzz..................! YES..for the $$$, CCV outstands, but is buzz about $$$ or food performance??? It's a restaurant review site, so I insist in believing that food performance needs to be considered first (again, some food items here were absolutely delicious, for ie the chicken cannelloni and poélé de chanterelles...but not to a buzz-worthy level in my view).
A reality check directed to some chefs in Montreal: I am not targeting any specific chef (they will recognize themselves wherever this applies): the intent here is not to be mean nor to patronize but to raise a constructive point that would benefit not only to yourself but also to your diners in their appreciation of your work -> when I went eating at 3 Star Michelin victor Gourmet Schloss Berg, Chef Bau was working hard behind his stoves till 2:00AM. This Chef is one of world's very best Chefs around the globe. When I went at 3 star Michelin L'Ambroisie, one of the greatest Chefs of all times, Bernard Pacaud, was working behind his stoves. 3 star Michelin Chef Pascal Barbot at L'Astrance...closes his restaurant when he is away! Many other Chefs who are among world's very best are working hard behind their stoves (another great ie would be 3 star Michelin Chef Valazza)...HERE, in Montreal, Top Chefs like Alexandre Loiseau, Navarrette Jr, Axel, Rouyé are working hard behind their stoves ..Now, what do you think..some may think of YOU....when they see you absent behind YOUR stoves! .................GET IT??........................

