Event: Dinner at Restaurant Le St-Urbain
Type of food: Modern Bistro fare
Date/Time: Friday January 22nd 2010, 18:30PM
Arome's ranking: #1 exaequo (Categ: Bistro)
Addr: 96 Fleury Ouest
Phone: 514-504-7700
Url: http://www.lesturbain.com

Le St-Urbain is the latest big buzz on the Montreal restaurant scene. As much as Le Club Chasse et Peche and Au Pied de Cochon are buzzling of tons of admirers, as much Le St-Urbain has swiftly joined them as the new buzzed kid of this city. First, let us clear this up right away before we get any further: Le St-Urbain is NOT a white tablecloth restaurant with sumptuous decor. That is not it's intent. What it is: a laidback looking bistro with strong focus on high end refined modern bistro fare (luxurious ingredients, modern presentations and cooking techniques). What it is as well is a dream of all restaurateurs: a never-ending fully packed dinner room. Let us indulge in the life of this dominant Prince charming throughout my review of this latest dinner there.

 

I started with a lobster salad:
A fresh beautifully white meaty chunk of  lobster that was tasting superb was shining in the middle of the plate. The meat of one of it's claw was artfully disposed next to it.  I appreciate the fact that there was nothing too fancy, nothing too unecessary that was done here: the lobster kept all it's flavorful seafood natural taste and flavors and was cooked to perfect moist/tenderness. The accompaniments were great too: fresh tasty tomoto chutney, fresh crunchy radish, green beans, cauliflower and enjoyable marinated carrots. Artful work in terms of presentation (modern and eye candy presentation), great precision in the cooking and the taste. Signature of a modern hip chef: the remarquable colour contrast at play on this dish will remind true foodies of world's modern fares's most beautiful food items. Overall, a first-rate starter (Note to myself: this goes on the top  best starters I ate in Montreal along with the Crab meat starter at Cuisine & Dependance , the Octopus/Romesco/Chorizo at La Chronique + the oyster Tartare at restaurant La Porte).
Pairing wine: The 2008 Cote du Roussillon, of private import (like all wines that were actualy served), stood out as a perfect white wine to the lobster -> mineral, light and yet well balanced by enjoyable fruity notes of peach. Also sensed the expected citrus flavor and the overall harmoniously work well together. Nice wine. 

Followed by:
Scallops, Ratatouille, Herbal chorizo emulsion,capers
Three generously-sized scallops, nicely seared on top and enjoyably tender within. Here again, the precision in seasonings and taste is a highlight: no overwhelming spicing nor flavors but ones that are rightly well  balanced, letting the seafood natural flavor oozing on this dish. The freshness and top quality  of the scallops was remarquable here. Also highly satisfying: the fabulous ratatouille made of evenly seasoned and cooked fresh finely diced veggies (There's a market of high quality all year in-season fresh veggies hidden in that restaurant..I'm sure..Rfaol!.It was that fresh!). The work of texture I found on this dish is a true work of art. Excellent.
Pairing wine: a Morgon 2007, from domaine Marcel Lapierre. This red medium-bodied wine is remarkably rich, elegant in mouth, with nice tannins.

Next, I enjoyed a smoked-in-house
Smoked Salmon accompanied by an emulsion of aragula, marinated cucumber:  Ok, I get it -> they also have a fishermen village in there!  That square of Salmon was packed with a remarkable freshness that leaves me with no other choice than to suspect the presence of the sea under their restaurant: Yes, that fresh! The fish was beautifully crusted on it's top, remarquable in texture. In terms of taste, that fish was simply divine. The aragula emulsion was of perfect creaminess and delicious in mouth. Perfect! Take note of the trendy presentation on stones/marble (That was cool, hip and up to now that is relatively rare to see in Montreal. They did that with couple of dishes and rest assured that many of the new trends on the Montreal restaurant scene will come from here!).
Pairing wine: 2006 Arbois-Pupillin (Domaine de la Renardière, Jean-Michel Petit). A chardonnay that I liked a lot: nicely bodied, great structure, very enjoyable with perfect well balanced acidity. Very good.

Followed by:

Orange mousse with cardamom: The fresh orange zesty  flavor was oozing enjoyably in there, and the mousse was simply heavenly -> elegant in it's attractive light and airy creamy smooth texture, deliciously vibrant  in terms of taste. A five-star dessert that looked and tasted great.

Ended with their signature dessert: 
THE DONUTS OF HEAVEN - Delightful donuts, tender and airy on the inside, that  you have got to dip in a decadent warm caramel/salted butter sauce. And No..it's not your next door donut! More of  the elegant high end version of the donut! When even your donuts  are 5 star ones, well...I guess it does not take a genius to get it: THAT WAS A 5 STAR DINNER!

Voilà! Overall, a moving fun gastronomic dinner that will stay in my best souvenirs: very simple -> When it's Great, I'll rave! And this 5 star dinner is, along the one I just had at La Porte 1 week ago, one of the very few top 5 star dinners I had enjoyed in this city since a while. 

IMPECCABLE SERVICE:
The service I had on this dinner was world class: the young lady at the entrance was cool, courteous, professional, fun and knows her job very well. Same could be said of the entire wait staff who served me on this dinner. Co-Owner  Chantal Gervais was the sommelier of the dinner and what an amazing professional: highly knowledgeable, fun to talk to, very courteous, sociable and attentive. The entire service reminded me a lot of the impeccable one I enjoyed at Le Club Chasse et Peche (an amazing balance between professionalism and coolness. So rare to see such a perfect balance at a restaurant).

DECOR
I  like the idea. It is a modern trend:  abstraction on the decor (very very simple, hence no need of pics taken of the inside decor) ->
It is a small glass-fronted dining room, with a big black board inside: 

 

view on an open kitchen, simple wooden chairs and tables:

 

OWNERS WITH A SMART OPEN/MODERN MIND!
I rarely rave about owners of a restaurant, unless I feel the need to. And as with anything, when I rave about something it is with the sole intent to show up qualities that I believe essential or gestures that I consider constructive and/or standing out.
Back to Le ST-Urbain: what a breeze to see owners (both Madame Chantal Gervais and Chef Marc-André Royal are owners) who understand the now widely spread modern foodie enthusiasm of taking pictures of a restaurant. I asked if I can take pics of the restaurant and they never hesitated 1 sec to facilitate my request (not one second of hesitation but an "of course, go ahead" enthusiastic response with no question/no surprise as it's nowadays so comon anywhere else around the world!). I voluntarily dropped the idea of taking pics of the dinner room since it was full of patrons, but still: what a great touch from both owners. It's obvious that they are updated with what's going on abroad in the foodie world. Not a necessity you might say, perhaps..BUT a modern breeze!

GREAT  AMBIANCE I WISH TO ALL RESTAURANTS
On this dinner: Lots of people of all origins, social status. Most importantly: no one stiffy, snobby! You litterally feel the open-mindness in the air. Really cool atmosphere where people are smiley, not staring at imaginary zombies or with faces iced in the cold! A cool relax festive overall feel in harmony with the staff joie-de-vivre happy feel that I sensed on this dinner (I read the St-Urbain's review of my all time favourite food columnist, Thierry Darraize, and I would not be surprised that the owners took note of what Thierry had qualified as "a general tense feeling", because on this dinner the general feel was not tense at all. To the contrary, it was relaxed, cordial, warm, fun, courteous).

AMONG THE TOP BEST RESTAURANTS IN MONTREAL?
Yes, definitely, Largely! And I will let you have some fun with this: you can see it as a top Mtl Bistro if you want, and it would accurately share the very top of the pack with Bistro Cocagne, M Sur Masson, Cuisine & Dependance. In what order, which is better...that should not be the question: each has their own character/forte, with Le St-Urbain being influenced by abroad's latest modern trends (so a paradise for foodies from around the world). You can see it among the top best not-to-be-missed gastronomic recommendations of Montreal: in fact, to my passionate foodie friends visiting Mtl, I strongly recommend Le St-Urbain.

THIS BUZZ I GET!
There are Buzz I will never get, but this one I do get it! They just gave me no other choice on this latest dinner there: the food was stunningly refined, daringly modern and enjoyably fun. Service was of impeccable first class standard, This January 2010 is starting so well: impressive New year's Eve dinner at Bistro Cocagne, a great dinner at Cavalli, a stunning Michelin star potential dinner at La Porte and this outstanding high end Bistro fare at Le St-Urbain. May all the positiveness coming out of such blissful moments spread on our collective humankind happyness! And I am out on this saying of my own: I will always rave about greatness, I will always spit on crap!

Aromes is out!

Recommended Items (Just click on the left-side pictures to display the review of the targetted restaurant):

Cuisine & Dependance: Easily anywhere between #3 to #5 top best upscale Bistro of Mtl. Chef Giroux is a legend of QC's gastronomy (back to his days at the now-closed Saint Augustin reknown top of the notch Restaurant). Now at C&D he perpetuates the magic of his humunguous talent with very tasty food, his love for impeccably fresh and great ingredients, and a remarquable passion for cooking that shines in the plates!  Click on the logo that's on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

XO Le Restaurant: Easily among the top 5 finest luxurious dinners in Mtl. Their free form lasagna will give serious challenge to the best items of World's best tables. And the amazement  is not about just that.... World class all the way (service, food, decor). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Au pied de Cochon Restaurant: In Montreal, there's simply no other restaurant like APDC. Inspired creative rustic tasty comfort food you won't find anywhere else. As long as they storm my tastebuds with daringly savourish food like the one I had on my latest dinner there (Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there), I will embrace the cult!

Nuances: If Michelin were on audit in Mtl, they would have to pay a visit here. Easily anywhere between #1 to #3 best finest table in Mtl. As simple as that!  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Club Chasse & Peche: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants. It has a lot going on for it: legions of fans, a decor that is unique and attaching, some food items I had there (check my description of the boar item / again, using pure common sense: do not order a filet mignon or some fries and tell me that it was like anywhere else...lol! At such restaurant, you go for the most elaborate, sophisticated fares!) have their ticket among World best restaurant's food items + an elite chef. There are buzz and hypes that I do not get, but this is one I do get! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Toque!: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Raza Restaurant: So could this be the best of the latest upscale New French North American cuisine in Mtl? I am just asking...Because, what I had on that Friday December 4th dinner there was exactly that: New French North American cuisine done way better, more creatively with an exotic latin fusion zesty touch. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant La Porte: This latest January 15th 2010 multiple-course tasting menu there (click on the logo on the left for the review of that dinner) was marked by Michelin star potential food items (spectacular dessert, the best mise en bouche I ever sampled on a Mtl fine dining table  + other food items that pertained to World's best tables). La Porte pertains definitely to the top 5 of Montreal Restaurants, no doubt abou that.

Arome's personal #1 table in Mtl for 2009. Easily the #1 or #2 best Bistro in Mtl. Another proof that the best tables are not necessarily the ones everyone is raving about! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Renoir, Hotel Sofitel, Montreal - It is among the very few CAA/AAA diamond rated tables in Montreal. And we all agree: with their executive chef Deff Haupt behind the Kitchen, this table can be stellar. But following a recent heartbreaking dinner there (click on the left logo to access the review of my latest dinner at Renoir), a question arises: can they really make the magic happen without Deff??? At that price and with such great reputation, they have no choice: they need to!

Passionate chefs. Very nice food. In the top 10 best Mtl restaurants, without a doubt. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Upscale fine dining with some selections of it's best food items surfing head to head with the best tables of the world's best items (of course, I am not talking about going there and ordering a filet mignon!  I am talking about their sophisticated stuff like what you may find on  their tasting menu). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Same opinion as with L'Eau à la bouche (although not exact same type of fare ) + the Q will also seduce by it's sumptuous decor. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there. EAB and Quintessence are without 1oz of a doubt among the top 5 best tables of Eastern Canada.

Osco - No buzz around it:  is it because it is a hotel restaurant? is it because it's classic food (with a modern touch, btw)? is it because the trend is not about Provence's food in Mtl? ...perhaps,  but that did not stop Osco from discretely hiding an elite fine dining table inside it's walls.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Event: Dinner at Bistro Cocagne
Date and Time: Thursday December 31st 2009 18:00PM
This is 3rd Dinner at Bistro Cocagne: See Sept 4th 2009 Dinner's  report here.
On that same post, in the comments section (see comments of 12/28/2009 10:09 PM),
you can also read about the 2nd dinner (dinner with Jannice) that occured there  this past Monday Dec 28th.
Location: Addr: 3842 Rue Saint Denis, Montreal, QC
Phone: 514-286-0700
Web site: http://www.bistro-cocagne.com

Yesterday, Thursday Dec 31st I did something unusual: waking up with a crazy last minute decision of trying to find a restaurant for the same evening ... a Dec 31st! A new year's Eve day!   Anyways, I was torn between the restaurants of two chefs I had just ranked as my personal top choices for Montreal chefs of 2009: Raza's Navarette and Bistro Cocagne's Loiseau. I was so torn between my two choices that I had to flip a coin to make my decision. BC won the decision of the flipped coin. I called BC at 10am on this Thursday Dec 31st and left a voice mail message asking if one table would be available for me at their opening on that same evening at 6PM. They called me back around 1:30PM to inform  that they still had some few seats left at the bar. I have no problem with seating at the bar and accepted the offer.

Upon arrival, I learn that Chef Alexandre Loiseau is working this evening. Although they do good without him (see my comments of Monday Dec 28th Dinner at BC) I go to BC for the purpose of enjoying Loiseau's huge talent shining throughout his food. Great news. Keep in mind that he will be off on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays starting as of right now (it is mentionned on their restaurant's web page).

I picked the 7 Service with wine pairings ($80 without the wine, $135 with the wine pairings) + I  also picked the
optional $20 Appéro festif (Oyster,Caviar + a glass of Crémant de Loire)

Two heavenly drinks, to start with!
Martini/Litchi cocktail and a glass of Crémant-de-loire (from Pascal Pibaleau winery). I started the dinner with two heavenly drinks...litterally! I rarely brag about drinks but they were just that superb. On your left, the Litchi Martini that Mathieu the Non-sommelier (because they have also an another Mathieu who is the sommelier) concocted for me. I had my share of Litchi Martinis in Montreal (it is my fetish drink , so naturally I try it everywhere I go) at the latest trendiest bars, popular night clubs, restaurants, hotels but I have to say this: up to now, only two of them have blown my tastebuds and left their marks in my most enjoyable souvenirs and they are those concocted for me by Sidonie at XO (ref: Click here for details of my dinner there) and this one by BC's Mathieu the Non-Sommelier. Mathieu, btw, really has the touch for some crazy great enjoyable drinkable stuff: despite not having all the necessarily tools for my other fetish coffee-cocktail, the Brasilian coffee...Mathieu the Non-Sommelier has stunned me twice (both on Dec 28th + Dec 31st) with his own version of  the alcoholic coffee (brillantly concocted on both dinners). Another star-drink of the night: the superb rich, pleasant, perfectly well balanced and heavenly enjoyable Crémant de loire sparkling white wine. The elegant fruity nose of this wine was nicely balanced by subtle fresh aromas of  almond and vanilla. This one is the proof that your wine can be not pricey and yet highly enjoyable. What a superb affordable white wine!

The 1st food item was part of what they described as the 'appéro festif', paired with that amazing Crémant de Loire:
Oyster and Salmon Caviar. Both seafood items were oozing of spectacular freshness. It is winter in Montreal and although we are on an Island, we have no oyster nor caviar locally. With that in mind, Kudos to Chef  Loiseau for keeping up with such fresh products! Loiseau, along with all the brillant chefs that came from the Normand Laprise's environment have that amazing quality of focusing on luxurious fresh high end quality products and both items, although relatively simple in execution, were stunningly tasty (they both kept their fully marine depth flavor. The Caviar was exquisite, large eggs with an amazing bright orange color).

Next food item:
Smoked Hareng, Potato salad. As with all Chef Alexandre Loiseau's food items I tried, there is a  constant: simplicity blasted by stunning taste, superb depth of flavor and impeccable precision of cooking. I have just described the essential behind that  superb morsel of nicely cooked hareng (perfectly smoked, meaty, tender, enjoyable rich and perfect refreshing taste). 5/5 for the Hareng. Same could be said of the potato salad (perfect mouthsome and a taste that is to die for).

Then, the course of Salmon:
Marinated Salmon, Celeriac remoulade, Dill mustard. Here, the impeccable freshness of the salmon was remarkable. Very tasty too. Kudos to the great mastery of the seasonings on this dish: not too salty, not salt-less neither. An amazing well balanced course of flavors, ingredients and seasonings. The turnip-rooted celery remoulade was flawless (nicely seasoned, enjoyably crunchy, oozing of freshness and tasty).
Pairing Wine: Anjou, Effusion, Domaine Patrick Baudouin (2006)
I have to admit a long time weak spot for White wines of France's Loire region. They do not taste cheap to my tastebuds! And they tend to relatively not be that $$$. This Anjou wine is made of one of my personal favourite grape varietal, the Chenin Blanc: it is nicely bodied, has character and sports a great finish. Liked it and it paired well with the salmon.

Followed by:

Pan seared quail breasts, ricotta gnocchi, sun dried tomatoes, olive tapenade with piment d'Espelette - The piece of quail had an enjoyably meaty mouthfeel with a nice balance between firmness and tenderness (perfect cooking mastery btw). The taste was superb: very earthy with a remarkable depth of flavor. If I had quail cooked like this, it would have been my long time favourite meat. The ricotta gnocchi was flawless and the overall was a remarkable work to balance harmoniously well the whole meal with the amazing freshness of the ricotta cheese, the perfect light and delicate gnocchi, the tasty nicely cooked veggies found there (delicious tomatoes, fresh yellow oyster mushrooms known as "pleurottes" in French. Talking about those "pleurottes", I found Loiseau to have brillantly worked their natural savoury sensation really well on this meal). This was a showcase of rich divine tastes.
Pairing Wine: Cotes du Rhône, Il Fait Soif, Maxime-François Laurent (2007)
Maxime-Francois Laurent should thank Mathieu the Sommelier at Bistro Cocagne , because on my two latest visits there, within an interval of 3 days, this wine was offered to me. A nice choice, imho: It is enjoyably aromatic (my tastebuds captured the smooth elegant peppery touch that characterizes this wine, with the fruity cherry nose ), has a nice texture of dense violet purple color and is naturally a nice pairing choice to the seared quail.

Following, a course of foie gras:

Pan seared Foie Gras, Apple Purée, Shallot Chutney, Almonds - had this same course on Monday Dec 28th when I dined there with Jannice. Loiseau was not working and here is what I wrote about the version his aides cooked for me: 'Good, but had Loiseau cooked it, it would have a bit more sophistication". I could not have been more right: the same apple purée that I was a bit unenthusiastic  about (it was good, tasty but I prefer more sophisticated accompaniment) is back tonight but in a tinier quantity, which gives a more elegant touch to the overall. And yes, the crunchy fresh nutty almonds with the straightforward tasty apple purée brings punch! As for the pan seared foie gras itself, there is no surprise here: Chef Alexandre Loiseau is a Tenth Degree Black belt  at  cooking what's among the best pan seared foie gras in town ->  excellent cooking technique that leaves the foie with a perfect inside smooth concistency, an enjoyable crusty exterior, and a deep earthy fully divine taste.  The accompanied shallot chutney was crunchy, tasty.
Pairing wine: Macon Viré Clessé, Cuvée Tradition, Domaine de la Bongran (2003). Enjoyable white burgundy with vivid fruity (melon), honey and floral flavors. Perfectly balanced, intense and delicate. It's finish is excellent (long enough and enjoyable).

Next, I had the choice between either the braised lamb shank (I drooled over this one on my Sept 4th Dinner at Bistro Cocagne - Click here for that report) or the Pan seared Scallops. For a change, I went for the latest:
Pan Seared Scallops, Cauliflower purée, beets, citronella oil  - The two lovely (you see 3 morsels since one of the 2 scallops is cut in half) generously-sized  scallops were juicy, meaty, freshly fully flavoured and cooked to perfection. Here, the usual annoying sweetness I generally get from most scallops cooked in town is muted by exactly what I expect from my scallops: the fully enjoyable marine seafood taste. The beets oozed of delicious earthy taste and freshness with a brillant zesty contribution  from the citronella oil. The cauliflower purée was flawless, rich, unctuous and delicious.To add to that concerto of amazing tastes: delicious small dices of fully flavored smoked beacons!
Pairing wine: Saint Bris Corps de Garde, Domaine Goisot (2006)
The lightest white wine of the evening, nicely balanced Chardonnay with an interesting rich texture. If I had an analogy to make, I'd say it's like a wise sage, quiet but present and welcoming!

The cheese plate ->
One of Bistro Cocagne's star cheese is Gouda. On the far left, I had the richly intense flavored 4 yrs old Beemster X.O Gouda  previously sampled at the Sept 4th Dinner + the tasty soft washed-rind Reblochon cheese. All good, accompanied by an airy delicious fresh dried fruit bread.

Dessert:
Chocolate Caraque, Vanilla Creme Anglaise, Fleur de sel caramel - I was hooked to this delicious Choco Caraque: it was packed with an ideal intense and rich succulent fresh taste of delicious chocolate, had a nicely mastered soft consistency . I did appreciate the perfect balance of sweetness here: not overly sweet, not lacking in terms of sweetness neither. Just well measured. The caramel fleur de sel is a bright companion to that piece of tasty chocolate marvel.
It was paired with one favourite of mine: a 2000 Tawny warres porto. You could not have found better companion to the Choco Caraque -> the caramel and fruity flavors of dried apricots of this nice porto complimented so well the cake.

To end up beautifully this successful dinner, I asked Mathieu the Non-Sommelier to make his magic work one more time (this gentleman knows how to do smart great cocktails, see my previous notes about his stellar Litchi Martini):
His Bailey's Coffee was simply superb!


SO, Voilà. What a gifted dinner and great way to end such a rich year of nice dinners. 

Service was superb on this dinner: they were all very focused on this evening (miles away from the little minor distractions  I  experienced on both previous dinners) + ambiance was festive (lots of patrons on this evening). Kudos to the wine  pairings: all choices were well thought and of nice value on top of pairing fine with each dish.
Also: the timing and duration of the tasting menu was great -> It started at 6h15PM, ended at 8PM but with no loss of time nor feeling of being rushed at all. So perfect delays and enjoyable meal.

Check all my Mtl's restaurant quick reviews on YELP

Recommended Items (Just click on the left-side pictures to display the review of the targetted restaurant):

Cuisine & Dependance: Easily anywhere between #3 to #5 top best upscale Bistro of Mtl. Chef Giroux is a legend of QC's gastronomy (back to his days at the now-closed Saint Augustin reknown top of the notch Restaurant). Now at C&D he perpetuates the magic of his humunguous talent with very tasty food, his love for impeccably fresh and great ingredients, and a remarquable passion for cooking that shines in the plates!  Click on the logo that's on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

XO Le Restaurant: Easily among the top 5 finest luxurious dinners in Mtl. Their free form lasagna will give serious challenge to the best items of World's best tables. And the amazement  is not about just that.... World class all the way (service, food, decor). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Au pied de Cochon Restaurant: In Montreal, there's simply no other restaurant like APDC. Inspired creative rustic tasty comfort food you won't find anywhere else. As long as they storm my tastebuds with daringly savourish food like the one I had on my latest dinner there (Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there), I will embrace the cult!

Nuances: If Michelin were on audit in Mtl, they would have to pay a visit here. Easily anywhere between #1 to #3 best finest table in Mtl. As simple as that!  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Club Chasse & Peche: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants. It has a lot going on for it: legions of fans, a decor that is unique and attaching, some food items I had there (check my description of the boar item / again, using pure common sense: do not order a filet mignon or some fries and tell me that it was like anywhere else...lol! At such restaurant, you go for the most elaborate, sophisticated fares!) have their ticket among World best restaurant's food items + an elite chef. There are buzz and hypes that I do not get, but this is one I do get! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Toque!: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Raza Restaurant: So could this be the best of the latest upscale New French North American cuisine in Mtl? I am just asking...Because, what I had on that Friday December 4th dinner there was exactly that: New French North American cuisine done way better, more creatively with an exotic latin fusion zesty touch. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Passionate chefs. Very nice food. In the top 10 best Mtl restaurants, without a doubt. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Upscale fine dining with some selections of it's best food items surfing head to head with the best tables of the world's best items (of course, I am not talking about going there and ordering a filet mignon!  I am talking about their sophisticated stuff like what you may find on  their tasting menu). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Same opinion as with L'Eau à la bouche (although not exact same type of fare ) + the Q will also seduce by it's sumptuous decor. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there. EAB and Quintessence are without 1oz of a doubt among the top 5 best tables of Eastern Canada.

Osco - No buzz around it:  is it because it is a hotel restaurant? is it because it's classic food (with a modern touch, btw)? is it because the trend is not about Provence's food in Mtl? ...perhaps,  but that did not stop Osco from discretely hiding an elite fine dining table inside it's walls.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Renoir, Hotel Sofitel, Montreal - It is among the very few CAA/AAA diamond rated tables in Montreal. And we all agree: with their executive chef Deff Haupt behind the Kitchen, this table can be stellar. But following a recent heartbreaking dinner there (click on the left logo to access the review of my latest dinner at Renoir), a question arises: can they really make the magic happen without Deff??? At that price and with such great reputation, they have no choice: they need to!

Folks, 

Already the end of the year, and it's the occasion tu unveil my personal choice for 2009 Best chef of Eastern canada/Quebec:

It's a tie between two Chefs whose cuisine have blown my tastebuds in 2009:

ALEXANDRE LOISEAU of Bistro Cocagne (On your left) and MARIO NAVARRETE Jr of Restaurant Raza (On your right).

The cuisine of  both chefs have equally stunned me by their  inpired taste and so well executed meals.
At our recent last get together, I realized that to some of you who knew me from the very beginning, it is a bit of a refreshing surprise, particularly on such a busy year filled with a huge amount of dinners (2009 definitely stands among the busiest years I had as far as dining at restaurants goes) at tables as impressive as Laloux, Lemeac, La Chronique, La Porte, Nuances, Beaver Club,  Toque!, Osco, au 51, XO, Club Chasse & Peches, Quintessence, Eau à la Bouche, APDC and so on..) that I went for chefs with less visibility than the usual Montreal's big names. Well, those are all great tables, make no mistake about that, but my tastebuds are telling me that in 2009, Loiseau's  and Navarrete's meals pleased them more than others's!
Bravo, chefs Loiseau and Navarrete!

Special Mention to following chefs whose meals have deeply seduced my palate in 2009: Chef Laprise of Toque! (You did a lot for QC's gastronomy and are very well respected as one of it's fathers!), Desjardins the son  (Eau à la Bouche), Chef Pelletier at Le Club Chasse et Peche (Chef Pelletier, some of your meals would top the best ones of the S Pelligrino top 100 tables of the World!), De Montigny at La Chronique, Giroux at Cuisine et Dépendance (You are one of my personal all times QC's greatest chefs, chef Giroux! Your passion for what you are doing, your humounguous talent paired with your discrete personality makes you one of the Chefs I respect the most on this small planet!), Jean Soulard (Restaurant le Champlain of Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City), Patrick Fregni (Au 51, Charlevoix), the team at Osco. ALL great, but I had to chose one (one duo of chefs, this year)!

Special Mentions:
-My personal 2009 most creative and tastier main course:
A tie between the free form Lasagna at XO
(http://aromes.xanga.com/714228763/montreals-luxurious-tables-xo-le-restaurant/)
and The braised boar at Club Chasse et Peche:
http://aromes.xanga.com/716460932/best-tables-of-montreal-le-club-chasse-et-p%C3%AAche/
-Personal tastier appetizer in 2009:
The crab starter at Cuisine & Dependance
(http://aromes.xanga.com/714440180/montreals-bistros-cuisine-et-dependance/)
Second positions to La Chronique's Octopus/Romesco/Chorizo starter!
-Personal top Best cheese course in 2009:
The Fromage Comtomme/Creme au piment d'Espelette from Toque!
(http://aromes.xanga.com/716627762/best-tables-of-montreal-toque-restaurant/)
World's best tables would drool over this one! Litterally!
-Personal tastier dessert in 2009:
The pot de crème at Bistro Cocagne
Second is a tie between M Sur Masson's Caramelized pineapple dessert with Nuance's Apples in Calvado Jelly.
-Personal most memorable meals of 2009:
Equally: EAB, Eau Pied de Cochon, Bistro Cocagne, RAZA
-Personal most sumptuous meal in 2009 (the closest I could get, in QC, to the Tokyo's or Paris Best):
Quintessence, Tremblant
(http://aromes.xanga.com/714901555/best-tables-of-quebec-quintessence-mont-tremblant/)
-My choice for 2009 Best waiters in Montreal:
a tie between Sidonie at XO and Phillipe Morissette at Club Chasse et Peche
-2009 Smartest restaurant
Osco! From smartly well thought menu, vast smart and daring wine list, eclectic decor with all kind of inside seating capabilities for their customers, various lunch and dinner options (oh yeah, despite their short looking menu) , here is the best example of a smartly thought restaurant.

Related Items:
-My review on September's dinner at Bistro Cocagne:
http://aromes.xanga.com/711358238/bistro-cocagne-montreal---friday-sept-4th-1800/
-My review on December's dinner at Raza:
http://aromes.xanga.com/717577423/montreal-most-original-restaurants-raza/

-My opinions on some of world's grand chefs:
http://aromes.xanga.com/709682217/aromes-opinions-on-worlwide-chefs-whose-food-he-tried/

Folks,
You have been numerous to ask me to add a mention to my restaurant review.
So you will see it more and more at the very top of my restaurant reviews.
Here is a quick guide to how it works:

REMINDER: ALTHOUGH I AM USING THE WORD "RESTAURANT",  IT IS MORE ACCURATE TO READ "DINNER" INSTEAD SINCE I DO NOT RATE RESTAURANTS....I DO RATE SPECIFIC DINNERS!

EXCELLENT: Flawless on each food item sampled on a SPECIFIC DINNER, from very 1st bite to the very last bite.
Here, I seek for:
 -impeccable freshness
-top quality ingredient
succulent/moving taste.
-complexity of the dish (Naturally, a dish that's simpler in execution but tastier will win over a complex but average-tasting dish)
-precision/technical mastery of the cooking
-consistency
This has nothing to do with the service. Just relates with the food (that is why I always remind you to understand
the relative definition of the restaurant ratings you are looking at! Each has it's own mode of operation.).
Sometimes (really rare, but a good  example will follow), one item will receive a bad rating but the entire meal still walks away with the mention EXCELLENT for explainable reasons: a good example is my Febr 13th 2009 Dinner at  L'Eau à la Bouche -> Course #1 received a poor rating from my part. But if you read carefully, it is not because it was bad. What I reproached to that course of oysters was not the lack of essential elements expected on a fine table (the oyster were of top quality, impeccable freshness), but mixes that did not suit my ideal of a dish of oysters. In other words, it was just not my type of oyster mixing. The rest of the meal was so moving that Excellent was the most accurate designation for that meal.
EXCELLENT is also the equivalent of arome's 9.5/10 or three *** Stars ratings 
VERY GOOD: With "Excellent", this is the only other mention I give to highly talented cuisines. This is usually
a cuisine very close to Excellent but who just lost very minor points to either:
-Less than 5% of it's food item that was not enoughly moving/exciting in terms of
freshness and/or taste.
-or anykind of very minor/insignificant light flaws you do not expect at such level.
VERY GOOD  is also the equivalent of arome's 8.5/10 or two ** Stars ratings 
GOOD: We are not in highly talented cuisines anymore here, but in food that is still worth paying for.
GOOD  is also the equivalent of arome's 7.5/10 or  one * Star  rating. 
AVERAGE: Average is my polite way of saying BAD!! I wont lose my time writing on those, but you will still hear me complaining about them everytime the opportunity rises!
Equivalent of arome's 6.5/10 or 0 Stars ratings 

BEST TABLES?
I know, I know. What is "best"? How to measure "best" and  bla bla bla..
Well, oh well..."THE BEST", I can't figure that one. THE BEST cannot exist because THE BEST has got to be purely subjective, a matter of taste of course. But I will never talk about THE BEST. I will talk about MY BEST and THE BESTS. Because, you see, a small city like Mtl  doesn't have zillions of restaurants to begin with. Like it or not, after eating at a good hundreds of restaurants (of course, I am not talking delis or fast foods here. It does not take a genius to know what is a decent-to good table in such a small city like Mtl), anyone is able to make up his mind as of what are the tables that stand out of the pack. So, YES...I am using the tag BEST RESTAURANT along the name of a restaurant that is among ...THE BEST of it's city. Sorry, but I haven't figured out a way to describe a restaurant as the WORST when it is ONE OF THE BEST!
WHAT ABOUT AMBIANCE?
Ambiance is....YOU, my friend!! Of course, a restaurant has to do the basic: play some nice background
music, perhaps thinking also  about a base of mood-booster, BUT ambiance/fun ..it is YOU!! You want fun, make it happen!!

Recommended readings:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restaurant_rating
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_critic

Wine: Tishbi Cabernet, Petite Sirah 2006

Light ruby red color. From my own tastings, the first nose revealed a bit of an odd tannic attack, but I enjoyed the way it evolved: I gave it a try every 7 to 10 minutes, letting it decanting it a bit, and it evolved into a pleasant clean and better balanced wine. It  lacks of intense character but for the price (not pricey), it is a nice value. The finish, upon decanting, became more and more pleasant albeit not persistent to my tastebuds. It is a young wine, and it shows (not a pronounced finish, not much nose)

Event: Dinner at Restaurant Raza
Friday December 4th 2009 17:30
Addr: 114 Avenue Laurier West (Montreal, QC)
Phone: 514-227-8712
Web site: http://www.restaurantraza.com/
Type of cuisine: Upscale French & Latin American Fusion
Arome's ranking: #2 exaequo (Categ: High end fine dining)
Arome's Mention: EXCELLENT

I purposely chose Raza to cut a bit with my latest trend of upscale French/QC's dinners  (Toque!, Nuances, La Chronique, Le Club Chasse et Peche and so on) . I wanted something a bit different but known for it's creativity. A table that's innovative. Here comes Raza.


Decor: Small, narrow but NOT claustrophobic at all: chairs and tables and well spaced, some along the grey walls (turning into brick walls on the second end of the restaurant's wall) :
 
others in the small --- and yet well exploited --- squarrish area that's in between the entrance and the bar:



Here's a picture of their little bar:




The overall is surprisingly elegant, romantic


(well thought dim lightning, and cute little
candles sitting in small blue glasses filled with  with corn seeds), cozy, far from being intimidating:


It is also sparsely decorated (couple of paintings here and there + few black and white farmed-photos).
One last immersion in Raza's dinning room before skipping forward to the food:





Food:
Total cost: $165 (7 course tasting menu with wine pairing + 1 cocktail + 1 Cognac'd coffed)

I asked Francis, my waiter of the evening, for a suggestion of cocktail.
Naturally, the star cocktail of the house is the Peruvian (Chef Navarate has Peruvian origins) Pisco sour  cocktail:
Based on the Pisco spirit, a south american brandy made of grapes, Raza's cocktail contains the expected lime juice,  a bit of lemonade and espuma mousse (aka foam)  + syrup is here replaced by some fruit sugar. The Pisco sour was without reproach: ideally frothy, it had the  enjoyable bitter sour flavour I seek in my ideal Pisco Sour. The potent flavor of the pisco was amazingly well balanced here by the enjoyable citrus touch. I still dream every night over that divine martini-litchi I had at XO, but this Pisco sour was equally seducing.

First came the home made bread:
I remember raving over the bread of Chef De Montigny at La Chronique. Well, Chef De Montigny has some serious competition,  right in front of his restaurant (La Chronique and Raza face each other). Actually this one beats Chef De Montigny's  bread  because not only this bread is as light, airy, fresh and delicious as the one of La Chronique ... but it is more exotic: Chef Navarate bakes his bread with yukon-gold potatoes and his bread oozes of an incredibly fresh-baked aroma. Just devour that bread fast while it's warm, since you wont wanna miss this beauty in all it's warmth and splendeur.
The bread to send all bakers to retirement!

Next, the wild mushroom soup:
It's presented in 2 steps. First, a plate filled with flavorful fresh chanterelles, yellow oyster mushrooms (pleurotes jaunes), black truffles:

Then, the waiter poured an unctuous all flavorful mushroom creamy soup in the plate:

The overall soup was impressively intense, powerful and delicate, enjoyably unctuous and richly seasoned. The fresh mushroomy flavor was so addictive on this one. And NO...this mushroom soup is just NOT another mushroom soup. It's a luxurious version of a muhsroom soup with smart fresh ingredients and an impeccable taste you just cannot  compare to most usual good mushroom soups.
Pairing wine: Tabernero Chincha, Peru 2007. This mixed Sauvignon blanc & Chardonnay has an enjoyable light minerality that reached out fine with the earthiness of the soup. Good choice of wine pairing on this course.

Course #2: Magret de Canard (duck)/Onions Jelly/Mango Vinaigrette
Bathed in a nice mango vinaigrette (flavorful, unique, enjoyably moving in terms of taste ), onions gelée (Wowed!), fresh coriander, the duck magret (breast of a moulard duck) had a perfect melt-in-your-mouth quality, was of impeccable texture and was delicious. This tastebud marvel of a dish was sitting on top of a nice unctuous creamy purée. Here's a dish  with flavors/taste that's daring in an enjoyable way. The zesty mango vinaigrette enhanced the overall with a memorable enjoyable acidy touch that added punch to an already tender delicious magret. Technically flawless + Tastebud-wise yummy!
Pairing wine: Wayne Gretzky in my wine glass!!  Rfaol! It was the 2007 Wayne's  Sauvignon Blanc (Estate Series, from Niagara). Dry and fruity, it was fine on it's own. As for the pairing, it complimented the dish just ok.

Course #3: Artic char/Blue Potato purée
cooked to perfection, the fish kept it's skin on one side, had a perfect light crispy nicely seared coating and impeccably moist inside. Tender and fresh, it had the freshness  of a fish that would have been caught right from the sea (enjoyable marine flavor). But this is not just another piece of well cooked fish: it had a tastebud blowing spicy zesty enjoyable taste that my tastebuds will have hard time forgetting about. My pictures might not suggest it, but may it be the artic char or the previous course of  duck magret, those are food items that would hit the world's  best tables on a heartbeat for their impeccable rich daring explosive tastes and flavors (infused beer was a hit on this one, blue potato purée was tasty and elegant, the coriander added a subtle punch)  and the subtle genius work that is done with each element of those dishes. Michelin needs to taste this!
Pairing wine: Pairing wine: Nekeas Navarra Spain 2006. This Chardonnay had a light texture, was, mineral and clean in mouth. Not a daring full bodied wine, but it's lightness was what I needed to accompany the fish.

Course #4: Quail/Pumpkin cream/guava-barbecue sauce
Look very homie, hein? Lol. Well, forget about the look, we are far from our next door homie fare here.  Our little bird was ideally firm, evenly cooked, nicely seasoned. This prosciutto-wrapped quail was very tasty. As with the previous  food items, flavors do blend so well here: the flavorful meat was enhanced by a surprisingly decadent mix of barbecue  and guava sauce. I used to say that I would sh00t the next cook who serves me barbecue sauce (on my barbecue backyard perhaps, but not elsewhere)..LOL...BUT this time, and in this case, it's the Chef Navarate who needs to shoot me, lol:  this sauce has moxy , zinc, punch! Impeccably delicious!  Kudos to the succulent pumpkin cream that accompanied the dish: earthy and savourish.
Pairing wine: Sancius Ribera del duero Spain 2004. A very nice tempranillo with an enjoyable flavor of cherry that reached out so well with the guava/barbecue sauce and the subtle sweetness of the quail. It is also nicely oaky, long and elegant in mouth, with lots of character. Largely a personal favourite of mine and of perfect companionship to the quail (it was not ideal pairing only to the pumpkin cream).

Course #5: Veal cheeks/Oyster mushrooms/Chorizo/Potato purée
Accompanied by chorizo, oyster mushrooms (pleurotes), a nice potato purée, the veal cheeks were ideally cooked, juicy,  had a very pleasant mouthsome (tender and yet firm enough) and a remarquable beautiful brown texture. I had my share of great veal cheeks in Montreal, but this one throws them on the fence! lol. Here again, freshness, remarquable technique and top quality of ingredients were shining through.
Pairing wine:  Taymente Huarpé, Argentina 2004
Elegant Malbec that's as fruity (berry,cherry ) as floral. Smooth in mouth, it was an amazing natural companion to the veal cheeks.

Course #6: Lucuma Ice cream, papaya gelée
The papaya gelée was not too sweet, not bland nor lacking at all. It had a somehow unique elegant rich and  intense succulent taste that was in between subtle sweetness and very light subtle salty-ness.  The Lucuma ice cream was delicious and refreshing. Simple items that are worked out that well in full subtlety and creative taste research....that wins my heart over any flashy-oriented complex dessert.
Pairing wine: Vendanges tardives Concha y Toro (VTCT). This white sauvignon is a perfect companion to desserts, blessed by an elegant body, long in mouth delicious sweet taste. Intense and full bodied, this wine was really nice on it's own and should have worked well with the papaya jelly, but my tastebuds thought otherwise: despite several attempts of fully concentrated tastings between the papaya jelly and the VTCT, the harmony I was trying to find in the marriage between both was not convincing.

Course #7: Chocolate custard, Dulce de Lecce ice cream, Corn powder

Serve me ice cream once, and I will hate you! LoL.Serve it to me twice, and your coffin is waiting for you at the d00r! Ice cream...I have that at home, I buy that at the grocery store. BUT wait! I am no st00pid: the ice cream that's being served to me here has the extra miles you wont commonly see everywhere: it was made of Lucuma (ice cream of course #6) and that alone worth the curiosity of trying it. And any expert of Ice cream would also tell you that we are talking about a luxurious version of an Ice cream here (not the simple common taste of your next door ice cream for sure). And here again, on the last  course of the tasting menu, the ice cream of dulce de lecce is oozing of it's own rich refreshing intense taste. But it's not just about the great Ice cream: the chocolate custard topped with an enjoyable smokey flavored marshmallow layer was interestingly moving, daring. And what a nice touch that corn powder was! Inspired!

Service: My waiter, Francis, is a courteous young gentleman. Humble, professional, very attentive, patient and helpful, he has the huge advantage to be very knowledgeable for having worked in lots of restaurants and for having worked as a cook too. He used to work at Navarate other restaurant, Madre and told me that I should not miss the brunch at Madre. I am not into brunches, but took note of this.

Find better pictures of this dinner on my Google picasa's gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/comorosislands/RAZARESTAURANT#
 
Conclusion:  For a long time, Alexandre Loiseau of Bistro Cocagne was alone --- in my books --- as my choice for this year's best chef in Montreal. But on the back of this stunning dinner, I have no choice but to declare a draw --- up to now --- between Navarrete and Loiseau at the very top. If there's one aspect where both chefs shine better than most it's exactly where it should:  the rise of stunning tastes! In other words, the word BLAND is not part of their vocab ;p Navarete is unarguably a genius of creativity, an architect of stunning refined and researched tastes, and surprisingly he is beating the boys of the block at their own game: remember those upscale bistros or new QC's/new North American fine  dining ... well, Navarette has surpassed them and raised the bar very high, albeit of course with a light touch of Latin American's influence. To each their own, and to me such dinner pertains to what I expect to see at the best Relais & Chateaux or  Michelin stared tables (of course, such creative genius of a cook should not be judged over simple fares such as a steak. It would be  pure non sense. Let him fly over a tasting menu where his creativity takes all it's sense, and then enjoy!).

VERY EXCEPTIONALLY, WHENEVER A TABLE PARTICULARLY SEDUCES ME (THIS IS BASED SOLELY ON THE AMAZEMENT OF  THE TASTE OF IT'S FOOD, FROM MY TASTEBUDS PERSPECTIVE), I WILL END MY REVIEW OF THAT TABLE WITH A ROSE (LOL), THE EQUIVALENT OF "BEST CHOICE" MENTION FOR OTHERS: 

Check all my Mtl's restaurant quick reviews on YELP

Recommended Items (Just click on the left-side pictures to display the review of the targetted restaurant):

Cuisine & Dependance: Easily anywhere between #3 to #5 top best upscale Bistro of Mtl. Chef Giroux is a legend of QC's gastronomy (back to his days at the now-closed Saint Augustin reknown top of the notch Restaurant). Now at C&D he perpetuates the magic of his humunguous talent with very tasty food, his love for impeccably fresh and great ingredients, and a remarquable passion for cooking that shines in the plates!  Click on the logo that's on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

XO Le Restaurant: Easily among the top 5 finest luxurious dinners in Mtl. Their free form lasagna will give serious challenge to the best items of World's best tables. And the amazement  is not about just that.... World class all the way (service, food, decor). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Au pied de Cochon Restaurant: In Montreal, there's simply no other restaurant like APDC. Inspired creative rustic tasty comfort food you won't find anywhere else. As long as they storm my tastebuds with daringly savourish food like the one I had on my latest dinner there (Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there), I will embrace the cult!

Nuances: If Michelin were on audit in Mtl, they would have to pay a visit here. Easily anywhere between #1 to #3 best finest table in Mtl. As simple as that!  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Club Chasse & Peche: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants. It has a lot going on for it: legions of fans, a decor that is unique and attaching, some food items I had there (check my description of the boar item / again, using pure common sense: do not order a filet mignon or some fries and tell me that it was like anywhere else...lol! At such restaurant, you go for the most elaborate, sophisticated fares!) have their ticket among World best restaurant's food items + an elite chef. There are buzz and hypes that I do not get, but this is one I do get! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Toque!: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant La Porte: This latest January 15th 2010 multiple-course tasting menu there (click on the logo on the left for the review of that dinner) was marked by Michelin star potential food items (spectacular dessert, the best mise en bouche I ever sampled on a Mtl fine dining table  + other food items that pertained to World's best tables). La Porte pertains definitely to the top 5 of Montreal Restaurants, no doubt abou that.

Restaurant Le St-Urbain: Many always ask me "What restaurants worth a trip to Montreal"? From personal opinion, I have always seen Au Pied de Cochon, Toque, Nuances, Raza, XO, La Porte and Le Club Chasse et Peche as the only tables that would justify a trip, from my part, to this city. But now, add Le St-Urbain to that list! It's a must: on this latest January 22nd dinner there (click on the logo that's on the left for the report on that dinner), they have stunned me with an impressive modern high end bistro fare, world class service and pure magic all the way. If you do not mind the laidback decor of this gastronomic prince charming, then this is a not-to-be-missed table.

Osco - No buzz around it:  is it because it is a hotel restaurant? is it because it's classic food (with a modern touch, btw)? is it because the trend is not about Provence's food in Mtl? ...perhaps,  but that did not stop Osco from discretely hiding an elite fine dining table inside it's walls.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Arome's personal #1 table in Mtl for 2009. Easily the #1 or #2 best Bistro in Mtl. Another proof that the best tables are not necessarily the ones everyone is raving about! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Passionate chefs. Very nice food. In the top 10 best Mtl restaurants, without a doubt. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Upscale fine dining with some selections of it's best food items surfing head to head with the best tables of the world's best items (of course, I am not talking about going there and ordering a filet mignon!  I am talking about their sophisticated stuff like what you may find on  their tasting menu). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Same opinion as with L'Eau à la bouche (although not exact same type of fare ) + the Q will also seduce by it's sumptuous decor. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there. EAB and Quintessence are without 1oz of a doubt among the top 5 best tables of Eastern Canada.

Renoir, Hotel Sofitel, Montreal - It is among the very few CAA/AAA diamond rated tables in Montreal. And we all agree: with their executive chef Deff Haupt behind the Kitchen, this table can be stellar. But following a recent heartbreaking dinner there (click on the left logo to access the review of my latest dinner at Renoir), a question arises: can they really make the magic happen without Deff??? At that price and with such great reputation, they have no choice: they need to!

Event: Dinner at Restaurant Toque
Type of cuisine: High end (North American/French) fine dining
Arome's ranking: #1 (Categ: High end Fine dining)
Address: 900, Place Jean-Paul Riopelle, Montreal, QC
Friday November 27th 2009  17:30
Tasting Menu, Pairing wine,1 cocktail, Coffee with Grand Marnier: $Can 270 (Before Tips)
Arome's mention: VERY GOOD

Well, I guess there is no need for presentations here! Anywhere around the world, pick any touristic pamphlet about Montreal, and chances are that you will find Restaurant Toque at the very top of the Mtl advertised restaurants. Ask any world restaurant rating system to have a look at Montreal, and Toque will be one of the very first they will stare at.  And our friend has a long list of distinctions to talk for him: it is the only  Relais & Chateaux in Montreal as of right now, it has --like Nuances --- some diamonds of the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA) and the American Automobile Association (AAA). The Guide Debeur has also awarded our friend. A bit like what I was writing to you about Nuances (see the review of my latest dinner there), I have no opinion over distinctions and will never have. I have opinions about what I see, what I eat, what I taste, what I experience. The rest is irrelevant to me!

The very first time I fully noticed Toque, it was a very long time ago: One of my all time favourite QC's chefs, Nancy Hinton was stating that Toque was a great table. Coming from such a highly talented chef, there was nothing I could do other than to open my eyes on this table. The interest grew up from there. And I saw Toque emerging as an impressive reknown table over time. With 2009 closing on, it was good timing to find out about the latest whereabouts of our famous buddy!

Toque! is located in the financial district, downtown Mtl, right besides the Inter-continental hotel and right in front the Palais des Congrès:

On the inside, the decor is elegant, vast (lot of space in between the tables) and contemporary,

bathed in a balance between pastel toned colors and some darker tones as well, with a "wealthy feel" to it.
In the middle of the restaurant, their wine cellar:

It's located in the Montreal financial district, and with that in mind I must say kudos to their designer: like it or not, it's --decor wise ---one ideal type of table to expect in such environment.

I started picking a cocktail that is unique/original/curious, an idea of the Toque! house: A Hydromel (quebec's honey flavored wine)  & Saffron cocktail. The concoction has an appealing full bodied golden yellow color, with a first  in-mouth strong-in-alcohol zest (in contrast with it's light smell).  Particularly appreciated the fact that the saffron was not overwhelming here. Barely noticeable and this helped the cocktail  to be more enjoyable (I will try mimicking this one in my food lab at home just  to see what it gives with stronger levels of saffron flavourings). Then the more you drink it, an enjoyable citrus taste starts developping. Very nice cocktail if you do not give up on the 1st in-mouth strong alcohol punch!

I opted for the 7 course tasting menu with foie gras ($104) + an another extra $107 for  the Prestige Wine pairing choices.

The tasting menu kicked off with a "mise en bouche":

of tangerine & orange liquid concoction.
To be drunked as a shooter. Ideally cold on the outside, it had a mousse topping consistency.  First shots were watery,  last ones were more consistent because of the essential tangerine  + orange nectars seating at the bottom. Not bad, but a forgettable mise en bouche. I suggest a mise en bouche with more punch/zest (I know, a mise en bouche is not intended to shock  the tastebuds...but it still can / and has to be a work of memorable flavorful/zestier  taste).

Course #1: Pétoncles Princess à l’eau d’amande amère, brunoise de chou-rave, pomelo et mousse de wasabi
SO, 2 Princess Scallops seating in 2 separate shells. First, Kudos to the impeccable freshness of this top quality scallop: fresher than that,  it's in it's waters! I do not mind paying the $$$ for quality (I'm especially extremely tough with seafood's quality, being born in a fishermen village), but the quality has to be there: and that was
the case here! Now a suggestion: scallops that tiny, you do not cut them in 3 tinnier slices (that was the case here):
keep them as a whole! It was complimented by a light enjoyable wasabi mousse (geniusly concocted, light and enjoyable and by not overwhelming at all, on top of completing so well the scallop item) , tiny slices of apples (nice accompaniments, too) + an enjoyable zesty touch of sour almond water (taste exactly like vinegar)
at the bottom. Not an item that would mark my souvenirs, albeit not bad at all especially considering the top quality scallops and beauty of the presentation (the 2 shells sitting on top of an  layout of crushed  ice was artfully beautifully pleasing to the eyes).  I just wished it could’ve been flavorfully bouncier/more vibrant.
Pairing White wine: Chablis 1er cru 2007, Les Vaillons, D. Dampt
Nice green yellow color, a fine palate of lemon and granny smith. It is a wine that I usually drink for a  straight pleasant consumption. It's a young wine, with no particular character,  but ideally light and of perfect companionship to the scallops. It's mineral flavor balanced so well with the scallops. Safe choice imho, but the results are there -> harmonious pairings.

Course #2: Terrine de foie de lotte, gelée de saké, radis, concombre et soya gélifié
Nice touch here. Where most restaurants will offer just 1 version of foie with their "tasting menus with foie", Toque! is more generous -> 2 versions of foie are offered here (one cold, the next hot).  And I appreciate their will to add an original touch of not offering just duck foie only.  Here it is a terrine of the burbot's liver. Surrounded by small pieces of cucumbers and carrots, the foie terrine  had an ideally pink fresh texture on the inside with a perfect smooth velvety overall consistency. The problem here is not with the foie itself (which was perfect on it's own) but with the soya sauce it was bathed in: the soya had overwhelmed the full flavor of the foie. So nice idea (the overall really brings some kind of  oriental fusion food trend that could have been a blast) but the foie needs to be enjoyed fully flavor-wise.
Pairing wine: Vouvray sec 2006, Haut-Lieu, Domaine Huet 
This too, appeared a bit of a safe choice to me. Make no mistake: it's a good mainstream wine, and I  usually like chenin blanc, but this wine is more appropriately ideal for a day to day consumption imho.  With that said, it's a good wine, with an intense rich smell (ideally aromatic with green apple flavors I truely  enjoyed), hearty light sweetness in mouth. The wine paired nicely with the oriental feel of the dish  (terrine of liver bathed in soya sauce).


Course #3: Foie gras poêlé, daikon poché au foin d’odeur, eau de pomme et gelées de miel et jurançon

Very elegant chunk of beautifully-textured (perfect soft unctuous texture) pan-seared foie. Evenly cooked, deliciously tasty with an impeccable smooth inside  consistency. It kept all  it's fully inner flavors. Bathed in a light subtly sweet delicious  apple jus, with dices of apples and heavenly delectable dices of honey gelée. That apple jus is very distinct and lightens the dish. Simply, WoWed!  Largely among the best pan-seared foie Items I ever had on any of the finest tables I dined at in Canada and abroad!
Pairing wine: Pinot Gris Grand Cru 2006, Sonnerberg VT, Domaine A. Boxler
This Pinot was intense, richly fruity and reached out perfectly well with the sweet apple jus and
lightness of the foie.


Course #4: Effiloché de lapin, pâte à cavatelli,
matsutakés et craterelles, betterave et purées de rutabaga
The tender small cubes of sauteed rabbit were impeccably tasty.  On top of being tasty, this dish was generously filling, nicely seasoned, flavorfully  well balanced. I courageously gave a good bite at the far left lonesome generous chunk  of garlick only to find out that it was free from it's usual agressive taste (that garlick was surprisingly sweet, enjoyable).
Pairing wine: Vosne-Romanée 1999, J. Grivot 
As much as I was reproaching the first 2 wine pairings to be safe choices, as much as I like this one and find it daring, ambitious, full of character. It had an intense depth of  in between cherry to cola flavors with enjoyable gentle tannins. And this wine will keep improving with age. Great wine on it's own,  and would be a perfect wine pairing to the the rabbit had the meat been more char-flavored.

Course #5: Gigue de cerf rôtie, cerfeuil tubéreux, rabiole (rutabaga), topinambour (Jerusalem artichoke) et purée de poivron rouge
The chunk of deer was lean, perfectly tender, nicely peppery, warm through the middle with a perfect hint of red. Delicious fresh chunk of meat. Comparable to the best filet mignons I had enjoyed.
The accompanied Red Pepper purée was tasty and beautifully unctuous. The yellow turnip was nicely boiled and tasty, the accompanied brussels sprouts fresh and pleasantly crunchy and there was a also (not mentionned in the title of the menu) a very succulent breaded meat ball of ground foie.
Pairing wine: Pauillac 2000, Château d’Armailhac
This 2000 Château d'Armailhac red bordeaux wine had not impressed me on 1st tasting (too light, sour, with a short nose at first). BUT it evolved progressively into an enjoyable smooth-palate pleasing intense full bodied wine. Nice surprising  wine that paired ok with the deer.


Course #6: Fromage Comtomme, crème au piment d’Espelette, pain craquant, gelée de piment, pomme et graines de tournesol
Instead of offering the traditional plate of cheese, they brillantly concocted a cheese based marvel: caramelized apples with Comtomme cheese (turned into a slight cheesy fondue) might not be exciting on paper,  but this dish is, to my tastebuds, one of the best daring/exciting/tastebud pleasers I could think of this year.  From the nice crunchy mouthsome to the sweet and salty decadent balanced flavors and tastes, each bite of this tastebud marvel  was a decadent propulsion to heaven. Litterally! In terms of moving tastes (as if that was not enoughly decadent, the creamy slighly peppery touch of Espelette chilly was shining through the dish, not to mention the delicious and exciting gelée of chilly) , this was simply a blast!   Largely one item that all the world's best restaurants would want to steal from Toque!. I would just present  it differently.

Course #7 consisted of 2 decadents desserts:
Nougat crémeux, flocons de dacquoise, nougatine,
fruits confits et sorbet à la framboise:
Elegant and more importantly a flawless delicious sugary creamy nougat, with touches of one of my personal top favourite  dessert cake (the dacquoise), delicious confit fruits and a decadent fresh raspberry sorbet concocted on site. Freshness, genius execution, sublime workout of the taste were all reunited in that succulent dessert!

And to end this heavenly feast,

a peach soufflé:
Here again, the technical mastery of this dessert was impressive. The soufflé was ideally smooth, unctous, sported a perfect fluffy texture, it amazingly held together nicely, and had a  remarquable consistency. It had an elegant sweetness to it. Soufflés are supposed to be simple, and yet  very few have delivered such a flawless soufflé! This was the soufflé to end all the soufflés!

Service
World class impeccable, exactly what I expect from a Relais & Chateau restaurant: There were several waiters and waitresses servicing my table, but all of them had same  polite, courteous, service oriented patient attitude with all 1st class standards such  as always making sure your glasses are never left empty, placing the chair for you when you  are back at your table, always making sure that clean new cutleries are placed on the table, and so on. Kudos to Christiane Lamarche, the Maitre D': classy, courteous, very professional, she is the "Force tranquille" of all this majestuous Chef d"oeuvre! Flawless.

Delay
Perfect timing. Actually the fastest tasting menu I could think of.  I am not surprised by this: they seem to be very serious about people complaining over the web on the long delays of the tasting menu. Although I appreciate the professional  reaction of Toque!, I can't stop myself from mocking at those complaints: how, for god sake,  do you opt for a tasting menu  and wants it to be fast! That is like chosing to watch en epic movie and complaining that it's long! It's just a non sense! Anyways there is no need to complain about delays: all the major top restaurants of Montreal will accomodate  you upon your request (just tell them that you like your epic movies to be short! rfaol! And oh..btw, while enjoying your requested swift paced tasting menu, ask yourself this question: what the hell are you doing at a fine dining restaurant, requesting a tasting menu with...an attitude of a fast food's customer?!). 

I always remind people of how fragile a food performance can be: such dinner could have been easily flawless to the point of stealing the show as my 2009 best meal in Mtl had there not been a forgettable mise en bouche,  had there been a better rework of the top quality princess scallops, had there been a more daring wine pairing choices  --- all things, you will surely agree with me, that are not major at all, especially given the welcoming ambitious attitude  and the creativity they do not hesitate to  partake in ---  but I am rigorous and have got to pin point/evaluate things the way  they are, so points were taken out for those very minor little relative mis-steps: A grade of VERY GOOD on this latest dinner, as opposed to EXCELLENT.  But all serious foodies already  know very well that Toque! can easily be EXCELLENT under any circumstance.

Find better and more pics at my picasa's gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/comorosislands/RESTAURANTTOQUEMONTREAL#

Ok Folks, here we go again: I have a dream. I have that dream where Montreal finally has a Pierre Gagnaire/Ducasse/Robuchon. I am telling you, it is realistic: see the comments section of my review on Nuances (we did exchange over this, and it is just a matter of finding the right person to do it. Probably Peter Morentzos from QDC, can do this, if you hear my call, Peter!). I dream also that one day Michelin stars will stare at Montreal: whatever they do, however they want to proceed, I would suggest to them that BRONTE  joins in...that Le Club Chasse et Peche joins in (Chef Pelletier, that dinner was world class but please make sure the dessert is a moving experience. I know you can go head to head with the big boys of this world!)...that Bistro Cocagne joins in (Chef Alexandre Loiseau, you are awesome! Vous etes un cadeau du ciel, Chef! My personal best in QC in 2009. As you know, all you need is to stick to haute fine dining for this occasion), same goes to another chef with a huge natural talent, Chef Giroux at Cuisine et Dependance. Of course, Toque! and Nuances will be there. Montreal, Yes you can!
I would also do one more thing, If I had the means to make this project materializing (hear me, Peter?!): I would send those grand chefs touring the world (I know some did, but for this project I would make them purposely do it again) to, not that many restaurants actually, just some very few ones: couple of the World best top 3 Michelin-stars restaurants. Offering them the most complete meals out there with all the comfort, time, concentration they need to fully get the picture. Then back to Mtl, I would tell them: 'Gents...that is what we need now"!! 

And oh...before I go, let's clear this up for good:
IF  you visit Montreal and want to keep on with the trend of this type of dinner within an elegant setting, Nuances has to be visited as well (I am not stating that they are similar...rarely 2 restaurants will be absolutely identical....but it is mas on menos in the same kind of trend. Which is one is better...??, I won't go there.. It is subjective!) as XO and Bronte. IF you want great classic French food, go for Le Bonaparte, Léméac (I am NOT referring to their bargain dinner after 22PM, I am talking about a real full-priced normal dinner there!), Le Nantua (also a seafood temple) and Osco. Those are also shining in an elegant decor btw. If you are seeking after some excellent  bistro fare, Bistro Cocagne and le M sur Masson lead the pack imho. Cusine & Dependance is a must as well. For QC's version of the North American fine cuisine, go for Club Chasse et Peche. La Chronique too. You still want to keep on with the best restaurants of the city, do not miss Le Lutetia and Samuel de Champlain. Of course, the list of tables where food is very good in Mtl is endless (Vauvert is great, Milos is  great, so is my top best personal Mtl's Italian table il Mulino, Primo & Secondo, Ariel, Nizza, San Lorenzo, June I, La Montée, Decca 77 and so on..) ...BUT from years of rigorously following the Mtl restaurant scene (from the eyes of a rigorous foodie), I can confidently state that you have there the top contenders of the Mtl Bistro, French Classic, and fine dining restaurant line up (la crème de la crème as we say in QC!).

So, Off I go!

Check all my Mtl's restaurant quick reviews on YELP

Check all my Mtl's restaurant quick reviews on YELP

Recommended Items (Just click on the left-side pictures to display the review of the targetted restaurant):

Cuisine & Dependance: Easily anywhere between #3 to #5 top best upscale Bistro of Mtl. Chef Giroux is a legend of QC's gastronomy (back to his days at the now-closed Saint Augustin reknown top of the notch Restaurant). Now at C&D he perpetuates the magic of his humunguous talent with very tasty food, his love for impeccably fresh and great ingredients, and a remarquable passion for cooking that shines in the plates!  Click on the logo that's on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

XO Le Restaurant: Easily among the top 5 finest luxurious dinners in Mtl. Their free form lasagna will give serious challenge to the best items of World's best tables. And the amazement  is not about just that.... World class all the way (service, food, decor). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Au pied de Cochon Restaurant: In Montreal, there's simply no other restaurant like APDC. Inspired creative rustic tasty comfort food you won't find anywhere else. As long as they storm my tastebuds with daringly savourish food like the one I had on my latest dinner there (Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there), I will embrace the cult!

Nuances: If Michelin were on audit in Mtl, they would have to pay a visit here. Easily anywhere between #1 to #3 best finest table in Mtl. As simple as that!  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Club Chasse & Peche: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants. It has a lot going on for it: legions of fans, a decor that is unique and attaching, some food items I had there (check my description of the boar item / again, using pure common sense: do not order a filet mignon or some fries and tell me that it was like anywhere else...lol! At such restaurant, you go for the most elaborate, sophisticated fares!) have their ticket among World best restaurant's food items + an elite chef. There are buzz and hypes that I do not get, but this is one I do get! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Toque!: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Raza Restaurant: So could this be the best of the latest upscale New French North American cuisine in Mtl? I am just asking...Because, what I had on that Friday December 4th dinner there was exactly that: New French North American cuisine done way better, more creatively with an exotic latin fusion zesty touch. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant Le St-Urbain: Many always ask me "What restaurants worth a trip to Montreal"? From personal opinion, I have always seen Au Pied de Cochon, Toque, Nuances, Raza, XO, La Porte and Le Club Chasse et Peche as the only tables that would justify a trip, from my part, to this city. But now, add Le St-Urbain to that list! It's a must: on this latest January 22nd dinner there (click on the logo that's on the left for the report on that dinner), they have stunned me with an impressive modern high end bistro fare, world class service and pure magic all the way. If you do not mind the laidback decor of this gastronomic prince charming, then this is a not-to-be-missed table.

Arome's personal #1 table in Mtl for 2009. Easily the #1 or #2 best Bistro in Mtl. Another proof that the best tables are not necessarily the ones everyone is raving about! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant La Porte: This latest January 15th 2010 multiple-course tasting menu there (click on the logo on the left for the review of that dinner) was marked by Michelin star potential food items (spectacular dessert, the best mise en bouche I ever sampled on a Mtl fine dining table  + other food items that pertained to World's best tables). La Porte pertains definitely to the top 5 of Montreal Restaurants, no doubt abou that.

Passionate chefs. Very nice food. In the top 10 best Mtl restaurants, without a doubt. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Upscale fine dining with some selections of it's best food items surfing head to head with the best tables of the world's best items (of course, I am not talking about going there and ordering a filet mignon!  I am talking about their sophisticated stuff like what you may find on  their tasting menu). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Same opinion as with L'Eau à la bouche (although not exact same type of fare ) + the Q will also seduce by it's sumptuous decor. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there. EAB and Quintessence are without 1oz of a doubt among the top 5 best tables of Eastern Canada.

Osco - No buzz around it:  is it because it is a hotel restaurant? is it because it's classic food (with a modern touch, btw)? is it because the trend is not about Provence's food in Mtl? ...perhaps,  but that did not stop Osco from discretely hiding an elite fine dining table inside it's walls.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Renoir, Hotel Sofitel, Montreal - It is among the very few CAA/AAA diamond rated tables in Montreal. And we all agree: with their executive chef Deff Haupt behind the Kitchen, this table can be stellar. But following a recent heartbreaking dinner there (click on the left logo to access the review of my latest dinner at Renoir), a question arises: can they really make the magic happen without Deff??? At that price and with such great reputation, they have no choice: they need to!

Event: Dinner at La Chronique
Friday November 20th, 2009 18:00
Addr: 99, Rue Laurier West, Montreal, QC
Phone: 514-271-3095
Type of cuisine: Fine Dining (French, North American...they call it New American ;)
Dinner/cost: Multiple course tasting menu with wine pairings $229 (Taxes Incl.)
Url: http://www.lachronique.qc.ca
Mention: VERY GOOD

It is amazing how a lot of people are madly in   with La Chronique.  Most comments, I read on the web, about La Chronique, are  basically declarations of love such as "the best restaurant of montreal", "my best restaurant ever" and so on. Even, my personal top favourite Mtl food reviewer, Thierry Daraize, wrote a raving review on La Chonique and untitled it "My best chronic". I am happy to see this collective love for La Chronique, for a very simple reason: I want Montreal to shine as a city of restaurants -> as we were debating in the "comments" section of the  review about my latest dinner at  Restaurant Nuances, I wish from the bottom of my heart that Montreal rises as one of world's best restaurant cities with newer standards like those found at Pierre Gagnaire/Jardin des Sens/Fat Duck. That can be done! In the meantime, my way of contributing to  the emancipation of Montreal as a city of great tables goes through a strict honest down to earth approach: if you are a great table, I will rave about you. If you are a  joke, I will spit on you!

Located in Mile-End, at  mas o menos a 10-15 mins drive from downtown, the restaurant is situated in a fully autonomous area (lol): hairdressing salon, art galleries, spas, beauty salon,  shoe stores, cookware stores....

 

...right in front, one of Mtl's great restaurants, Raza. Not far, another great one: Jun I

...+ couple of other restaurants like Phayathai (close neighbor to La Chronique), Baldwin Barmacie (Wow..that is original. Check that out!). A bit further, you have Chao Phraya (my personal favourite Thai in Mtl), Thai Grill (hot decor, but the food has never stunned me though), Barros Lucco (to my opinion, the best chilean sandwiches in Mtl), + the long time and one of my personal Mtl favourite historical delis called Wilensky).

Back to our main bud, La Chronique:

I do not know if you will get that same feeling, but whenever I was starring at their online pics (http://www.lachronique.qc.ca/fr/photo_resto.htm), I had the feeling that it was a bit somber, tiny old schoolish kind of bistro. The 1st time I watched those pics, I also anticipated the red wall to not be of my taste as well. But stepping physically into La Chronique provided me with a complete different visual experience, a very pleasant one I had not expected: La Chronique is certainly not huge, but I truely like the way they managed to maximize the space of this small restaurant: you do not get the unpleasant chlostrophobic feel usually found in such tiny space. Here, long banquettes are against the walls, tables and chairs superbly well arranged to provide room to the patrons. Really well though in terms of space management. And the restaurant does not have the borying kitsch decor I would have anticipated: to the contrary, there is an elegant bistro chic feel I was not expecting at all here:

The red color of the wall is beautiful, the black and white pictures are the fruits of the talented photograph that is hidden inside Chef De Cank. De Cank (he was not present on that evening), is a passionate photographer and  has a gallery of his beautiful black and white everyday's life scenery photos displayed at this restaurant: 

Seems that De Cank also works the wood. The following wooden bread and salt boxes are wood art works of Chef De Cank:

OK 2 more pictures of the dinning room, before we indulge in the overall dining report:

 

Upon entering the restaurant, I was greeted by a gentleman who was going to be my main waiter of the evening, Pierre. Polite greetings, coat checking, and a beautiful corner table with view on Laurier Street.
The chef working tonight was going to be Olivier de Montigny: very sympathic gentleman.

The layout and ambiance is ideally elegant, 

even romantic too (with nice little jazzy music in the background, dim light,  and the general cozy feel of the dinner room, mainly when it's not busy of patrons, this could be a type of sympathic charming romantic spot that I would certainly adopt).

I picked the multiple course tasting menu with the $can 195 (Before Tax) tasting menu:

Course #1, Octopus/Romesco/Chorizo.

Amazingly tender and very tasty chunk of octopus, oozing with an impeccable enjoyable char-grilled flavour. Intense rich tasty mouthfeel. The subtle tasty romesco sauce was not overwhelming, letting the octopus shine with all it's splendeur. Finally a table that understood the importance of not mixing up big chunks of chorizo with a delicate appetizer! I am saying finally, because at so many tables, I saw lots of chefs mixing up big chunks of those sausages with food that were delicate on their own, instead of doing what Chef Montigny has brillantly done here: small little dices of tasty chorizos (delicate, elegant and appropriate). Kudos to the ecclectic touch of the chef on this one: here, it's a successful balad under the suns of the seafood and the exotism of the spaniards (chorizo). Ole! Succulent. 
Pairing wine: Chablis Tete D'or, Brilland Simon 2007. Amazing white wine, with an intensely pure body, fully mineral, sweet and elegant. It reached out perfectly well with the romesco sauce and the small dices of Chorizo. Brillant wine pairing, like the rest of all Pierre's wine pairings as you will see later on. Great job, Pierre!

Course #2, Tuna/Avocado/Shrimp

Here again, another refreshing touch of ecclectic. This time, we travel to the Oriental world. The tuna is offered two ways here: both in it's tartare + tataki version. The tataki tuna with wakame algae had a remarquably genuine authentic oriental taste that I enjoyed. Really well done both in terms of technical execution (truely felt like it was done by an original oriental chef using his/her authentic homey japanese tataki cooking technique / the meat was firm as expected, had the perfect texture) and work of the taste (tasty!). The tartare version was as succulent: oozing of freshness, remarquably tasty, it was paired with a julienne of fresh apples and sat on top of a delicious purée of avocado.The shrimp was a beautiful big juicy lonesome marvel dressed with it's enjoyable tempura crust. Really well done!
Pairing wine: Marsannay les Longeroies, 2006 (Domaine de Jean Fournier). Great Pinot Noir from Burgundy, delicate, with a remarquably light fruity flavor. This wine was a killer to my tastebuds and paired harmoniously with this course. Really great. It is a private import. 

Filet de Saint-Pierre fish (John Dory)/Lobster

The chunk of Lobster was tender, slightly short of the fully marine flavor that make me go Wowed when I devour seafood items,  bu tasty. The filet of Saint-Pierre fish was impeccably evenly well cooked, not too smooth, not  tough with an appealing memorable white snowy tender flesh. Both the lobster and the Saint-Pierre filet were bathed in a yellow wine sauce: brillant work here since the yellow wine sauce was not overwhelming by all accounts. To the contrary, it completed perfectly well the dish. On it's own, the yellow wine sauce was as beautifully creamy as enjoyably light and refreshingly tasty. VEry nice.
Wine pairing:  A 2008 Blanco Inedito rioja. Amazingly soft and subtle enjoyable wine that I never tasted before. It reached out so well with the lobster and Saint-Pierre filet.

Course #4: Foie Gras

The Pan-seared foie had perfect on-the-outside beautifully browny caramel-looking texture, but it was unfortunately  mushy on the inside. Taste of the foie was good though. It came with a well concocted cabbage roll that was ideally crunchy and filled with an inside of risotto (nice touch!). A bit busy as a dish, but a winner since it was succulently hearty and homey: the delicious delicate flavorfully packed sauce of foie gras was a blast!
Pairing wine: Clos Saron, La Cuvée mystérieuse, 2004. Intense red color, amazing great nose, enjoyably oaky with a nice sweetness made this Merlot/Syrah a perfect fully flavored rich companion to the Pan-Seared foie gras.  
Course #5: Pork

The pork meat was cooked 2 ways -> sous vide and roasted. The sous vide one, as expected, was oozing of it's impeccable well preserved full porky natural taste. Perfectly cooked: tot too smooth, not to tough. The roasted was better though: tender, superior enjoyable taste, enjoyable porky peppery flavors. It was also less greasy, naturally. Accompanying the pork: fresh crunchy grean beans and a stand out fresh onion cippolini that was perfectly boiled and it was tasty.
Pairing wine: Saint-Julien 2006 (Domaine du Jaugaret). Impeccable red wine (Cabernet sauvignon at 80%, petit verdot, malbec). Private import. I am trying to get this wine at home for Christmas. Loved it so much!

The plate of cheese

Very nice varied selection (well thought choices, imho) from Quebec and abroad:
I chose went with 4 picks ->
(1)Queso de Valdeon
Nicely aged strong/intense flavoured Spanish blue cheese
A savourish mix of both cow's and goat's milk.
(2)Le Cendrillon from Alexis de Portneuf
A flavorful rich cheese of Saint Raymond de Portneuf (Qc) that won the World Cheese Awards 2009. http://www.montrealgazette.com/entertainment/movie-guide/Quebec+goat+cheese+voted+best+world/2063623/story.html
The inside softness of this cheese is amazing.
(3)Pikauba From Lac Saint Jean, QC
Made of cow milk. Flavorfully intense/rich at smell, but surprisingly light in taste/mouthfeel
http://www.fromageduquebec.qc.ca/en/fromagerie.php?fromagerie=lehmann
(4) Fleur du Maquis, Corsica
Made of sheep's milk. Perfumed with savory (sarriette), rosemary, juniper berries (baies de genièvre). Very mild, light milky taste that is enhanced only by it's herbal perfume. Just ok.

My four picks of cheese were beautifully presented on a squarish plank of wood, with nicely sweet roasted nuts, dry apricots and other sweet dry fruity savouries (I am usually not keen to the sweet & salty, but this type of balance between sweet and salt seduces me highly: the overall was total tastebud pleaser -> the intense pairing sweet wine (Gewurztraminer Cuvée Théo, Clos des Capucins, Domaine Weinbach 2007: elegant, intensily sweet, fruity, velvety), the salty-ness of the cheeses, the sweetness of the dry fruits and nuts...simply amazing!!).

Ending on a sweet note:

Course #6: Carpaccio of Pineapple

From left to the right, a delicious oval-shaped ice cream, a creamy white choco concoction, pearls of strawberry sauce and slices of pineapple (hence the name Carpaccio of Pineapple). A dessert full of love, as I like to qualify such dessert: simple, straightfoward but done with passion, all the little attentions and full of elegance.
Pairing wine: a 2006 Gaillac doux, Domaine Rotier. Nice complexity of apricot, fig, quince fruit (coing). Ideal pairing to the hearty dessert.

SEE better photos of this dinner at my Picasa's restaurant Gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/comorosislands/RESTAURANTLACHRONIQUEMONTREAL#

SO, Voilà!
Overall, VERY GOOD. Would have walked away with an EXCELLENT rating had the dessert stormed the show (read: being complex in execution or tastebud blowing like the Bistro Cocagne's Pot de crème I had, or the M sur Masson's Caramelized pineapple marvel, or the 'Amour des Iles' exotical hottie I devoured at l'Eau à la bouche earlier on in February) + the foie gras being not of mushy inside consistency.

As opposed to Le Club Chasse et Peche or XO, there was no particular meal (out of this one dinner) that I would throw against those of some of world best tables that I already went dining at (El Bulli, Fat Duck, Pierre Gagnaire, Noma), but this dinner at La Chronique has definitely some stellar performances that confirms it's well deserved consideration as one of Montreal's top best tables (the starter of Octopus is among the best Octopus appetizer I tried on a fine gourmet table since a long time, their fresh bread would send the best bakers to retirement, their pairing wine choices was flawless and service was very good). Next time I will go there, I want this time to try Chef De Canck food as well (a bit of both would be highly appreciated).

Check all my Mtl's restaurant quick reviews on YELP

Recommended Items (Just click on the left-side pictures to display the review of the targetted restaurant):

Cuisine & Dependance: Easily anywhere between #3 to #5 top best upscale Bistro of Mtl. Chef Giroux is a legend of QC's gastronomy (back to his days at the now-closed Saint Augustin reknown top of the notch Restaurant). Now at C&D he perpetuates the magic of his humunguous talent with very tasty food, his love for impeccably fresh and great ingredients, and a remarquable passion for cooking that shines in the plates!  Click on the logo that's on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

XO Le Restaurant: Easily among the top 5 finest luxurious dinners in Mtl. Their free form lasagna will give serious challenge to the best items of World's best tables. And the amazement  is not about just that.... World class all the way (service, food, decor). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Au pied de Cochon Restaurant: In Montreal, there's simply no other restaurant like APDC. Inspired creative rustic tasty comfort food you won't find anywhere else. As long as they storm my tastebuds with daringly savourish food like the one I had on my latest dinner there (Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there), I will embrace the cult!

Nuances: If Michelin were on audit in Mtl, they would have to pay a visit here. Easily anywhere between #1 to #3 best finest table in Mtl. As simple as that!  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Club Chasse & Peche: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants. It has a lot going on for it: legions of fans, a decor that is unique and attaching, some food items I had there (check my description of the boar item / again, using pure common sense: do not order a filet mignon or some fries and tell me that it was like anywhere else...lol! At such restaurant, you go for the most elaborate, sophisticated fares!) have their ticket among World best restaurant's food items + an elite chef. There are buzz and hypes that I do not get, but this is one I do get! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Toque!: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Raza Restaurant: So could this be the best of the latest upscale New French North American cuisine in Mtl? I am just asking...Because, what I had on that Friday December 4th dinner there was exactly that: New French North American cuisine done way better, more creatively with an exotic latin fusion zesty touch. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant Le St-Urbain: Many always ask me "What restaurants worth a trip to Montreal"? From personal opinion, I have always seen Au Pied de Cochon, Toque, Nuances, Raza, XO, La Porte and Le Club Chasse et Peche as the only tables that would justify a trip, from my part, to this city. But now, add Le St-Urbain to that list! It's a must: on this latest January 22nd dinner there (click on the logo that's on the left for the report on that dinner), they have stunned me with an impressive modern high end bistro fare, world class service and pure magic all the way. If you do not mind the laidback decor of this gastronomic prince charming, then this is a not-to-be-missed table.

Arome's personal #1 table in Mtl for 2009. Easily the #1 or #2 best Bistro in Mtl. Another proof that the best tables are not necessarily the ones everyone is raving about! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant La Porte: This latest January 15th 2010 multiple-course tasting menu there (click on the logo on the left for the review of that dinner) was marked by Michelin star potential food items (spectacular dessert, the best mise en bouche I ever sampled on a Mtl fine dining table  + other food items that pertained to World's best tables). La Porte pertains definitely to the top 5 of Montreal Restaurants, no doubt about that.

Passionate chefs. Very nice food. In the top 10 best Mtl restaurants, without a doubt. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Upscale fine dining with some selections of it's best food items surfing head to head with the best tables of the world's best items (of course, I am not talking about going there and ordering a filet mignon!  I am talking about their sophisticated stuff like what you may find on  their tasting menu). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Same opinion as with L'Eau à la bouche (although not exact same type of fare ) + the Q will also seduce by it's sumptuous decor. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there. EAB and Quintessence are without 1oz of a doubt among the top 5 best tables of Eastern Canada.

Osco - No buzz around it:  is it because it is a hotel restaurant? is it because it's classic food (with a modern touch, btw)? is it because the trend is not about Provence's food in Mtl? ...perhaps,  but that did not stop Osco from discretely hiding an elite fine dining table inside it's walls.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Renoir, Hotel Sofitel, Montreal - It is among the very few CAA/AAA diamond rated tables in Montreal. And we all agree: with their executive chef Deff Haupt behind the Kitchen, this table can be stellar. But following a recent heartbreaking dinner there (click on the left logo to access the review of my latest dinner at Renoir), a question arises: can they really make the magic happen without Deff??? At that price and with such great reputation, they have no choice: they need to!

Event: Dinner at Le Club Chasse et Pêche Restaurant
February November  13th, 18:00-21:30
Tasting menu with wine pairing: $178 (Tax included)
Addr: 423 St Claude Montreal, QC H2Y 3B6
Url: http://www.leclubchasseetpeche.com
Phone: (514) 861-1112
Type of food: High end refined North American dining
Arome's ranking: #2 exaequo (Categ: Fine Dining)
Arome's mention: VERY GOOD

  Going to CCP is mystic affair (I love mysticism, it just have to happen naturally and charmingly. Which was the case here) for me: from booking a table over the phone with Ray, one of their staff gentleman (Oh man...this gentleman has that quiet powerful full-in control tone of voice of a young godfather, . Mystic was starting to blow in the air, right there!)...to watching the mystic appeal of their web site...to the choice of a Friday 13th...6PM (yeah..I know, it would be even better at midnight)...to lurk into the dark lanes of the Vieux port...


to the nostalgic soviet acronym (CCP)..to the somber  interior of CCP:
...it was really a feeling I have so rarely experienced before going to a restaurant. Although I truely felt that mystical mood --- I could not help myself from stopping to build up on the inside --- to be very special/funny/and welcoming since years of intensively eating at restaurants had put aside the sweet excitement I once used to have whenever I was going at restaurants (there are feelings you just cannot control), I was also certain of  a focused fact: the food was going to be my main focus and nothing would blindfold me when it comes to unleash my tastebuds at rigorous judgements.

Upon arrival, I am courteously greeted by a dynamic wait staff (very dynamic, helpful, courteous. You can see that they were very well selected, very well trainned). I truely like this refreshing melting pot (from different backgrounds/origins) of well-mannered, professional and yet accessible gentlemen and women. My dedicated waiter, Phillipe Morissette, is a gem of  his own: soft spoken, very well educated + articulated, this cool high class gentleman is service-oriented, very knowledgeable and his past experience at some Relais & Chateaux shows towards his impeccable service (along with Sidonie at XO,  Phillipe  -- up to now --- is among my personal top two favourite Mtl waiters of 2009).

The decor is dark (the cool kind of dark ), narrow, with low ceilings:


Because of it's omnipresence of somber colors (oil-painted alike dark grey on the walls, dark burgundy  armchairs, dark colored ceilings and floors),




it brings a cozy feeling but make no mistake: this place is very popular and this evening  was lively (lots of people, great ambiance, nice background music of techno and other type of trendy music types. Background Music was set to perfect volume since you could talk without having to raise the voice and you could easily hear others with them talking at normal tone). Pics were of course taken right at the opening at 6PM, so people were not getting in yet (but less than an hour later, it was packed).

It is important to note that there' s no official tasting menu at CCP. But they are so accomodating that they will concoct one upon your special request. That  is the case here and I highly appreciated the move:

Course #1: Pan-seared scallop cooked à l'unilatérale (cooked on one side) with a beautiful subtle artful line of fennel cream. Welcoming sweet taste here (albeit, I am not usually too keen about the latest trend of slightly sweetening scallops. I am a bit old school on this one, preferring fully enjoying the salty nature of my mollusc bud ) . The solo big scallop had the perfect slightly browny seared texture, was evenly cooked (nice balance between a perfect  inside firm meaty consistency with it's ideal tenderness). The cooking technique was flawless here, but I wish the scallop had more of the fully marine flavour I seek in my ideal mollusc friend. 7/10
Accompanied wine: a 2007 Alsace Bergheim's white Marceil Deiss pinot. I have a long time soft spot for most wines from Alsace (they are accessible, have a nice light fruity taste I am fond of) and this was no exception. The slight creamy and apple-y flavors of this subtle sweet elegant wine is ideal pairing to the scallop.

Course #2: Sweetbreads/Gremolata/Artichoke
Sweetbreads is a touchy affair. It is bitter by nature but the most talented chefs know how to turn this snicky meaty chunk into a tastebud wonder. And this one at CCP was exactly this: a marvelous tastebud wonder!
Cooked in white wine, the sweetbreads were flavorfully intensily rich, utterly tasty, perfectly smooth on the inside, nicely crispy on the outside. Awesome expert work here to avoid the usual natural bitterness of the sweetbreads and making it very pleasant as I expect my best sweetbreads to stand. The accompaniment of gremolata is a genius classic accompaniment  to veal meats and it was there, and it was a superbly tasty expertly concocted condiment. The light and vibrant mushroomy porcini reduction, the savourish creamy elegant celery-root purée ...all added an harmonious multiple dimension of tasting experience to this flawless course. 10/10
Accompanied wines: two glasses here. Really a nice touch from Phillipe, my waiter. He is also a sommelier, too. The idea here was to get the short finish light-on-the-palate 2005 Les Fourneaux chablis 1er cru  to reach out with the artichokes accompaniment of the sweetbreads, while his buddy the 2005 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay (more vibrant/with a  long finish and subtle nose of hazelnut)  would take care of the rest of this course:

Not a bad  idea at all since they all paired harmoniously well (particularly on a plate where there was quite a suite of ingredients: gremolata, porcini reduction, celery-root purée).

Course #3: Cod
Smelt very enjoyably freshly flavorful right away. Bathed in a light crème normande , with a fresh flavor of oyster and topped by artful slim slices of beets and carrots with tasty mushroomy accompaniment. Perfectly seared on the outside, with an ideal tender flaky and moist inside consistency. This was total blast in terms of impressive taste, freshness, tastebud amazement: it had that very memorable 'marine' flavor I seek in my perfect  freshest pieces of fish. All accompaniments stood out well here: mushrooms were tender and packed of flavorful freshness. The crème normande was very tasty. I want to underlign a particular element on this plate that I would, If I were them, put a patent on:  on the plate, there was a tiny trace of creamy sweet black garlick purée. This was not just original, it was a memorable treat -> heavenly tasty without the bad notes of garlick, this creamy marvel is true genius workout that I have never tasted before and that compete with the Bistro Cocagne's onion chutney I intensively raved about (check out the review of my Septh 4th Bistro Cocagne's dinner). Both CCP and Bistro Cocagne should put a patent on the above-mentionned creative dish accompaniments! 10/10
Pairing wine: the 2006 Savigny les Beaune (Domaine Catherine & Claude Maréchal). I had enjoyed some great Savigny Les Beaune (the Les Hauts Jarrons, 1er Cru, Nicolas Potel being one I highly enjoyed) and this one was in the same trend: full bodied, with a refined elegant texture and enjoyably aromatic flavor. Satisfying choice of wine, but I would personally chose a nice white Sauvignon (as usual, question of pure personal prefs).

Course #4: Braised boar/Brussels sprouts/hazelnuts/Caramelized fig
Bathed in a very delicious light and flavorful meaty jus (the juice of the braised boar itself), this course has simply stole the show as my 2009 Mtl's best main course (along with the Free Form Lasagna I had at XO): with a light amazing tasty crusty coating on the outside (basically a light elegant cheesy coating), perfect browny texture, ideally tender on the inside. This marvel-to-the-tastebud wonder was a genius workout of amazing flavorful meaty taste with accompaniments that were creatively so well thought: the hazelnuts in there were not just another ingredients to try...they were a perfect harmonious addition to the rest of this course. The caramelized fig was pure genius food work: intensely rich and tasty, it was the kind of tastebud amazement marvel that secured for good what I think of this cuisine: one of world's bests (YES...you are reading this right! Do not go to CCP, order a risotto and complain that I am pushing  a bit too much when I write this. Instead, be more accurate: Go to some of the best restaurants of the world like the Fat Duck, El Bulli, L'Osier, L'Astrance, Hermann. Then head to CCP, try this Braised boar course. Then you will get what I mean! Of course, I am not stating that CCP is as great as those. That is purely subjective and I wont go there. What I am stating is that on this tasting menu, some items compete with the best ones I ate at the Fat Duck, El Bulli, L'Osier..etc). Back to the helluvah heavenly caramelized fig: so it added to an already flawless course, a level that is hard to beat. This, folks, would send even the best tables of the world (El Bulli, Fat Duck) to reflexion. Stunned!
Pairing wine: Montecillo Gran Reserva 2001. To my tastebuds, this was perfect match with the boar meat. The oaky intense flavor of that MGR 2001 is exactly what I seek for with my game meats.

Course #5: Pan-seared duck liver
Nice cooking technique here (very close to my two top personal Mtl's all time best pan-seared foie: refer to my Febr 13th dinner at  L'Eau à la Bouche + the Sept 4th dinner at Bistro Cocagne): beautifully seared, slightly brown on the outside, enoughly smooth (albeit a little bit mushy at some point when I was digging deeper into it, which makes it just a tad behind the impressive one I had at EAB...but with accompaniments that stole the show over it's similar at EAB...mind you the one I had at EAB had barely any accompaniment...didn't need accompaniments neither since it was stellar on it's own self) consistency on the inside. The taste was flawless, very hearty and delicious. It was accompanied by a suite of pure wonders I have got to rave about, because not only they did add a welcoming degree of creativity and well thought additions to the duck liver, they also were very tasty: a delicious sweet fruity purée of dates (talk about adding marvels to the marvelous), a jalapeno flavoured apple jelly (Wowed! Patent..Put a Patent on this, my dear CCP! Heavenly delicious, elegantly concocted) , nice fresh slices of spice bread...all were heavenly breezes to my heart, eyes and tastebuds. 
Paired with a QC's ice cider: that's the beauty of the new world touch -> as much as I liked my fruity Old world classic wine along with the foie, I must admit that ice cider brings better punch!

Course #6: Paris-Brest topped with a popcorn ice cream
The popcorn ice cream is one I never tried before.This one was surprisingly delicious and elegantly superior (in taste, richness of the flavors) to the usual good ice creams. Heavenly tasty ice cream with bites of nuts that were crunchily nice, but the overall Paris-Brest, although not bad at all, failed to seduce me: the choux pastry ring was nice but not memorable. Same opinion over the pastry cream. I am fond of Paris-Brest, but this one was slightly sub par to the top ones I had at the high end pastry spots of Montreal (Patisserie L'Escurier, for ie). Sorry for the comparison but judgement is an equation of comparisons. So, the Paris-Brest was good but not great. 8 over 10
Just need to underlign a nice little touch from their part, here: the Paris-Brest was served with a nice cup of warm enjoyable light Assam tea. This is a great idea, since the amazing malty light flavor of this type of tea really balanced harmoniously well the sweetness of the Paris Brest. Nice touch!



I found the delay very reasonable between the courses (average of 30 mins between the course, but never mind the numbers here...this is perfect timing to enjoy one course at a time as it is supposed to be!). I sometimes see criticisms about tasting menus being too long: that is a non sense. A tasting menu is supposed to be slowly fully enjoyed. What is a tasting menu if I feel like just stuffing my mouth one food item right after another??

If you ask me, given a complete economical blackout, what Montreal restaurant would be the very last to close, I'd say CCP: get this -> without big advertisements, with just mouth to mouth recommendations, this place is packed of devoted fans. And that is happening with nearby great restaurants like Chez L'Épicer. When success wants you, there is no escape out!  I am sure the owner (s) must laugh at night while sleeping: just mouth to mouth reputation and they end up with one of Mtl's most admired tables. Well deserved because this is a stunning cuisine! It is also a place that shines with an impeccably well trainned admirable staff (here, I deeply felt that everyone is equally treated with class and full attention with a level of professionalism and accomodation that all restaurants would gain from following).

The only 2 reasons CCP is getting a VERY GOOD mention from my part, instead of EXCELLENT  (it is very close to Excellent btw, and they truely do not need my opinion to know that. Look at how they are appreciated by armies of food fans...that right there talk for their greatness) is just because I expect such highly talented cuisine to blow my tastebuds with an impressive dessert course  (make no mistake, I am sure they can deliver tastebud blowing desserts like those I enjoyed at EAB, M Sur Masson, Bistro Cocagne and Nuances) + the 1st course of Pan-Seared scallop lacked the fully marine freshness and taste I do expect on an appetizer of Seafood .

On my way to CCP, this Bob Marley song was playing in my mind: 'there is a natural mystic blowing through the air...'. On my way back, another song was reworked to suit my subsequent feelings: Black Eyed Peas 'I got a feeling that tonight gonna be a good night' was simply renamed 'Tonight was a very good night'. There are moments in your life that are simply filled with greatness, and in this imperfect world of sins and economical turmoils, I pray for such spectacular happyness to spread over the destiny of the less fortunate!

Ok, Folks I am out! For more and better pictures on this dinner, please visit my Google's Picasa.

Check all my Mtl's restaurant quick reviews on YELP

Recommended Items (Just click on the left-side pictures to display the review of the targetted restaurant):

Cuisine & Dependance: Easily anywhere between #3 to #5 top best upscale Bistro of Mtl. Chef Giroux is a legend of QC's gastronomy (back to his days at the now-closed Saint Augustin reknown top of the notch Restaurant). Now at C&D he perpetuates the magic of his humunguous talent with very tasty food, his love for impeccably fresh and great ingredients, and a remarquable passion for cooking that shines in the plates!  Click on the logo that's on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

XO Le Restaurant: Easily among the top 5 finest luxurious dinners in Mtl. Their free form lasagna will give serious challenge to the best items of World's best tables. And the amazement  is not about just that.... World class all the way (service, food, decor). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Au pied de Cochon Restaurant: In Montreal, there's simply no other restaurant like APDC. Inspired creative rustic tasty comfort food you won't find anywhere else. As long as they storm my tastebuds with daringly savourish food like the one I had on my latest dinner there (Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there), I will embrace the cult!

Nuances: If Michelin were on audit in Mtl, they would have to pay a visit here. Easily anywhere between #1 to #3 best finest table in Mtl. As simple as that!  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Club Chasse & Peche: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants. It has a lot going on for it: legions of fans, a decor that is unique and attaching, some food items I had there (check my description of the boar item / again, using pure common sense: do not order a filet mignon or some fries and tell me that it was like anywhere else...lol! At such restaurant, you go for the most elaborate, sophisticated fares!) have their ticket among World best restaurant's food items + an elite chef. There are buzz and hypes that I do not get, but this is one I do get! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Toque!: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Raza Restaurant: So could this be the best of the latest upscale New French North American cuisine in Mtl? I am just asking...Because, what I had on that Friday December 4th dinner there was exactly that: New French North American cuisine done way better, more creatively with an exotic latin fusion zesty touch. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Arome's personal #1 table in Mtl for 2009. Easily the #1 or #2 best Bistro in Mtl. Another proof that the best tables are not necessarily the ones everyone is raving about! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant La Porte: This latest January 15th 2010 multiple-course tasting menu there (click on the logo on the left for the review of that dinner) was marked by Michelin star potential food items (spectacular dessert, the best mise en bouche I ever sampled on a Mtl fine dining table  + other food items that pertained to World's best tables). La Porte pertains definitely to the top 5 of Montreal Restaurants, no doubt abou that.

Restaurant Le St-Urbain: Many always ask me "What restaurants worth a trip to Montreal"? From personal opinion, I have always seen Au Pied de Cochon, Toque, Nuances, Raza, XO, La Porte and Le Club Chasse et Peche as the only tables that would justify a trip, from my part, to this city. But now, add Le St-Urbain to that list! It's a must: on this latest January 22nd dinner there (click on the logo that's on the left for the report on that dinner), they have stunned me with an impressive modern high end bistro fare, world class service and pure magic all the way. If you do not mind the laidback decor of this gastronomic prince charming, then this is a not-to-be-missed table.

Passionate chefs. Very nice food. In the top 10 best Mtl restaurants, without a doubt. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Upscale fine dining with some selections of it's best food items surfing head to head with the best tables of the world's best items (of course, I am not talking about going there and ordering a filet mignon!  I am talking about their sophisticated stuff like what you may find on  their tasting menu). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Same opinion as with L'Eau à la bouche (although not exact same type of fare ) + the Q will also seduce by it's sumptuous decor. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there. EAB and Quintessence are without 1oz of a doubt among the top 5 best tables of Eastern Canada.

Osco - No buzz around it:  is it because it is a hotel restaurant? is it because it's classic food (with a modern touch, btw)? is it because the trend is not about Provence's food in Mtl? ...perhaps,  but that did not stop Osco from discretely hiding an elite fine dining table inside it's walls.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Renoir, Hotel Sofitel, Montreal - It is among the very few CAA/AAA diamond rated tables in Montreal. And we all agree: with their executive chef Deff Haupt behind the Kitchen, this table can be stellar. But following a recent heartbreaking dinner there (click on the left logo to access the review of my latest dinner at Renoir), a question arises: can they really make the magic happen without Deff??? At that price and with such great reputation, they have no choice: they need to!

Event: Dinner at Nuances
Addr: Montreal Casino (1, Avenue du Casino)
Phone: 514 392-2708
Url: http://www.casinosduquebec.com/montreal/fr/restaurants-bars/nuances
Type of cuisine: Fine dining (French cuisine)
Arome's ranking: #2 Exaequo (Categ: Fine Dining)
Aromes's mention: EXCELLENT

NUANCES:  I dropped by Nuances to see what they are up to (it's being a while I did not go there). Last time was a while ago: we went there to celebrate Jannice's birthday  and the diner was fantastic from what I recall. This time I went solo, since I have been given the late mission of providing fresh updates about some of Mtl's finest dinings. Which did not really suit me since I wanted to pamper myself with a pure Classic French restaurant  such as Le Margaux or le Bistingo (Miles away from Nuances...but that is what I wanted at that moment..but oh well..next time). So, this mission of Mtl's most high end finest tables updating will cover Samuel de Champlain (completed),  Lutetia (completed), Osco (completed), Toque (upcoming) and here comes Nuances.
Nuances, as most already know by now, is -- according to the AAA/CAA Diamond's Restaurant ratings (http://www.aaa.biz/approved/Diamond_Awards/2009/2009_5D_Restaurants.pdf) - one of the very few most awarded of Mtl's upscale fine dining tables. AAA/CAA Diamond's Restaurant ratings is in Montreal the most regarded restaurant rating system since we do not have, as of now, any Michelin rated restaurants up here in Mtl. I do not know what to think of that..lol..but I hope that one day, before I die, Mtl sees ..finally..it's first Michelin star restaurant. While waiting for that moment, let me unfold the details of my latest diner at Nuances.

The decor is marked by an omnipresence of light warm touches, cream / slightly beige colors in an elegant contemporary serene layout. Kind of modern restaurant decor I would see matching well with the warmth of COte d'Azur or Mediterranea's surroundings. For those who knew the previous decor, it is as different as night and day This time, I sampled their 5 course $110+$60 wine pairing (the $60 extra on top of the $110 being for wine pairing)  pairing tasting menu.

Course #1: Cold-pressed foie gras of duck, figs and dried spice bread
To each their own, and to me hot preparations of the foie is my favourite way to boot at a fine dining table.
Cold foie are ok to me , although  I tend to be particularly picky with it. With foie like those
of Rougié Sarlat been the  foie by which i judge the other foie, most cold foie appear way too casual.
But if the freshness, the quality, the perfect techniques are behind it...I will stand as a fan of any cold foie of course! So this one I sampled at Nuances was of perfect top quality, with an awesome velvety and meaty feel.
It had the fullest authentic foie gras taste with a perfect buttery consistency.
The accompaniments of figs and spice bread are toooooooo straightforward, here. I would personally make it more inspirational with  ..say...an elegant fully flavoured emulsion of lightly sweet items...or... an elegant delicate lightly subtle sweet chutney of onions...or...an elegant wine poached pear...or..any kind of inpirational reductions or sabayons. Anything that would make it more creative, fun and more "haute fine dining" (I remember that I once had, at a fine-dining table, a foie served along an unbelievably memorable piece of elegant caramelized pineapple, with other geniusly well thought inspired accompaniments such as an apple/ginger/carrot sauced marinated marvel that have rarely been matched at other tables we dined at. Yrs later, both Jannice and I are still drooling ...literally..over that heavenly starter!) .
Accompanied wine: Sauternes, Clos Haut Peyraguey, 1er Cru Classé, Bordeaux, 1997
Nice white blend from the French Barsac / Sauterne region, with sweet aromas of vanilla, almond and a subtle creamy flavored fragrance. Good match for desserts usually and it suited  well with the fig accompaniments of this foie (although drinking it along the foie gras did not convince me, a second try this time with both the foie and the fig at the same time brought convincing results of harmonious pairing). 

Course #2: Peruvian sea bass, ratatouille brunoise in a lemon jelly, yuzu emulsion and koshi hikari rice
The sea bass was nicely cooked, had a perfect inside moist consistency and was fully flavored. 
Ratatouille brunoise: Ratatouille is very homey, casual,comforting. I guess some might expect me to find  such traditional vegetable stew (as most already know, it is from France's Provence region) a bit of an off note
on a modern fine-dining table, but to the contrary I like traditional touches in modern cuisine depending of course on  how it is done. I remember for ie that my dinners at Helene Darroze and L'Astrance in Paris + the one at Anne-Sophie Pic (Valence) were the perfect example of traditional/modern successful inspirational fine dining: reworking creatively  some of the traditional fares. I do not expect all fine dining restaurants to be as stellar as those I have mentionned, but I do  expect --- to some extent -- some sort of  comparison to them  particularly when your table is one of the city's most awarded! A ratatouille can be elegantly reworked, So how did this one turn out? It turned out impressively well with that exact modern touch I was looking for, while maintaining the homey savourishness of a perfectly executed traditional ratatouille. Nice dish.
Accompanied wine: Anjou, Les Pépinières, Domaine Jo Pithon, Vallée de la Loire, 2005
The one of Jo Pithon's (http://www.thewinedoctor.com/loire/jopithon.shtml)  that I am very familiar with was his  2004 Anjou les pépinières which seduced me with it's strong aromatic flavor, oak-y presence and amazing
long finish. The 2005 Anjou les pépinières served at Nuances is in the same class: aged 10 months in conical oak casks and barrels, affordable in $$$

Course #3: Risotto with chanterelle jus, roasted scampi and sautéed mushrooms
To me, a great risotto = unctuously delicious, and that could be said of this one I sampled at Nuances:  perfectly creamy with an ideal toothsome,  the risotto was right,  full of flavour and the chanterellejus offered some interesting flavor combinations. The scampi was vibrant and nicely crunchy.
Accompanied wine: Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages, Les Vallons de Lamartine, Bourgogne, 2003
Burgundy Chardonnay scents of apples and rising bread dough. Fresh and clean flavours of juicy apples and lemon juice. This one is relatively affordable: I recently ordered it  for less than $30

Course #4: Roasted loin of deer, black berry jelly, celery root cromesquis  in a hazelnut crust, and sautéed cabbage
Nice cut of loin,  tender and fully flavored with the slightest bit of gaminess I like with my game meat fares. The deer was tender and moist and had a wonderful enhanced flavor. Perfectly cooked, not overdone with an outstanding clean taste and firm texture. Black berry jelly paired so well with the meat, but the celery root cromesquis, although really well done and tasty, just did not suits with the deer to my personal tastes (but nice though).
Accompanied wine: Cabernet-Sauvignon, Estate, Ernest & Julio Gallo, Northern Sonoma, Californie, 1995
It is just recently that I opened myself to wines of the new world (for a long time, I was sticking mainly to the old world wine) and this one gives me more reasons to embrace the new world wines. It has all I like in a wine with personality and fragrance: well balanced, with a nice intensity and a welcoming aromatic nose of resin, cedar and blackberry notes + a wisp of prune in the background.

Course #5: Apples in a calvados jelly, muscovado baba, apple butter crumble, bourbon vanilla emulsion
Dessert is an interesting playground I look forward to, particularly at a fine-dining table, because it is to me one window of opportunity on wild creativity. It is also the closing argument of a long journey...lol...so, it has to be as enjoyable as the journey should have been. I expect a great table to have either some very creative desserts or if you want to keep it classic and simple...just ensure it will be heavenly tasty. In Montreal and surroundings, M Sur Masson, EAB  and Bistro Cocagne are one of those few tables who reach out harmoniously with my call for the divine dessert (Tasty and creative).  Well, add Nuances to that prestigeous list: I am usually not fond of desserts made out of apples, but I have got to give this to them: the muscovado baba, the butter crumble, the vanilla emulsion were all marvels of sweetness expertly and elegantly concocted. Awesome!

Service is up par with this type of haute fine dining table: very courteous, professional, accomodating and world class. Hushed enjoyable atmosphere during this fine-dining diner (loved enjoying such high end food in calm).
The plates were so beautifully presented and very picture-candy and I wished I could bring you pictures, but it is forbidden to take pics in a Casino.

Bottom line, from my personal perspective, I believe that if Michelin stars experts were in Montreal and surroundings, I would suggest they start by reviewing Quintessence and Nuances before anything else. They will have a great base to boot with. And their presence is more than ever welcoming in Montreal, since we now need to reach newer heights (make no mistake: Mtl has very good tables, but it is about time we upgrade to newer levels like those of the greatest tables of Paris, Tokyo)

The Best to all, Aromes!

Check all my Mtl's restaurant quick reviews on YELP

Recommended Items (Just click on the left-side pictures to display the review of the targetted restaurant):

Cuisine & Dependance: Easily anywhere between #3 to #5 top best upscale Bistro of Mtl. Chef Giroux is a legend of QC's gastronomy (back to his days at the now-closed Saint Augustin reknown top of the notch Restaurant). Now at C&D he perpetuates the magic of his humunguous talent with very tasty food, his love for impeccably fresh and great ingredients, and a remarquable passion for cooking that shines in the plates!  Click on the logo that's on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant Le St-Urbain: Many always ask me "What restaurants worth a trip to Montreal"? From personal opinion, I have always seen Au Pied de Cochon, Toque, Nuances, Raza, XO, La Porte and Le Club Chasse et Peche as the only tables that would justify a trip, from my part, to this city. But now, add Le St-Urbain to that list! It's a must: on this latest January 22nd dinner there (click on the logo that's on the left for the report on that dinner), they have stunned me with an impressive modern high end bistro fare, world class service and pure magic all the way. If you do not mind the laidback decor of this gastronomic prince charming, then this is a not-to-be-missed table.

XO Le Restaurant: Easily among the top 5 finest luxurious dinners in Mtl. Their free form lasagna will give serious challenge to the best items of World's best tables. And the amazement  is not about just that.... World class all the way (service, food, decor). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Au pied de Cochon Restaurant: In Montreal, there's simply no other restaurant like APDC. Inspired creative rustic tasty comfort food you won't find anywhere else. As long as they storm my tastebuds with daringly savourish food like the one I had on my latest dinner there (Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there), I will embrace the cult!

Nuances: If Michelin were on audit in Mtl, they would have to pay a visit here. Easily anywhere between #1 to #3 best finest table in Mtl. As simple as that!  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Club Chasse & Peche: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants. It has a lot going on for it: legions of fans, a decor that is unique and attaching, some food items I had there (check my description of the boar item / again, using pure common sense: do not order a filet mignon or some fries and tell me that it was like anywhere else...lol! At such restaurant, you go for the most elaborate, sophisticated fares!) have their ticket among World best restaurant's food items + an elite chef. There are buzz and hypes that I do not get, but this is one I do get! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Toque!: Anywhere between #1 to #5 top Mtl restaurants.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Raza Restaurant: So could this be the best of the latest upscale New French North American cuisine in Mtl? I am just asking...Because, what I had on that Friday December 4th dinner there was exactly that: New French North American cuisine done way better, more creatively with an exotic latin fusion zesty touch. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Restaurant La Porte: This latest January 15th 2010 multiple-course tasting menu there (click on the logo on the left for the review of that dinner) was marked by Michelin star potential food items (spectacular dessert, the best mise en bouche I ever sampled on a Mtl fine dining table  + other food items that pertained to World's best tables). La Porte pertains definitely to the top 5 of Montreal Restaurants, no doubt abou that.

Arome's personal #1 table in Mtl for 2009. Easily the #1 or #2 best Bistro in Mtl. Another proof that the best tables are not necessarily the ones everyone is raving about! Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Passionate chefs. Very nice food. In the top 10 best Mtl restaurants, without a doubt. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Upscale fine dining with some selections of it's best food items surfing head to head with the best tables of the world's best items (of course, I am not talking about going there and ordering a filet mignon!  I am talking about their sophisticated stuff like what you may find on  their tasting menu). Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Same opinion as with L'Eau à la bouche (although not exact same type of fare ) + the Q will also seduce by it's sumptuous decor. Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there. EAB and Quintessence are without 1oz of a doubt among the top 5 best tables of Eastern Canada.

Osco - No buzz around it:  is it because it is a hotel restaurant? is it because it's classic food (with a modern touch, btw)? is it because the trend is not about Provence's food in Mtl? ...perhaps,  but that did not stop Osco from discretely hiding an elite fine dining table inside it's walls.  Click on the logo on your left to read my report of the dinner I had there.

Renoir, Hotel Sofitel, Montreal - It is among the very few CAA/AAA diamond rated tables in Montreal. And we all agree: with their executive chef Deff Haupt behind the Kitchen, this table can be stellar. But following a recent heartbreaking dinner there (click on the left logo to access the review of my latest dinner at Renoir), a question arises: can they really make the magic happen without Deff??? At that price and with such great reputation, they have no choice: they need to!